Thursday, June 4, 2026
Bath
Not content with all the things there are to do in London, we struck off across the country yesterday to see Bath. I think my brother and his wife wanted to get a sense of the countryside and see what life is like in other parts of England. Bath isn't exactly your typical town, being a huge tourist destination in its own right, but it has a lot of history and a rather unique sense of place so it seemed like a good choice.
I met my brother, sister-in-law and niece at Paddington Station and we caught a 9:30 a.m. train, which rocketed smoothly across the fields and farmland and got us to Bath in less than an hour and a half. We walked into town and visited Bath Abbey, the site of religious buildings dating back to the time of the Saxons.
The structure itself has been demolished and remade several times over the centuries. What's there now is a Gothic building dating back to the 1500s. I particularly enjoyed the downstairs museum, with its examples of medieval floor tiles and other artifacts found when parts of the abbey were excavated.
Then we went to the Roman baths, which I had never done in the several times I've been to Bath. I don't know why because it was quite fascinating -- not only the pools themselves, which in the time of the Romans were fed by water from an underground warm spring -- but also the exhibits of all the Roman debris they've found in and around the springs. Coins, glass, headdresses and masks, jewelry, you name it. Some items were tossed into the springs for ceremonial or religious reasons, including "curses" inscribed on bits of lead, calling on the Gods to exact vengeance on certain thieves or miscreants.
You wouldn't want to swim in the spa now. Apparently the Roman plumbing has given up the ghost, because the pools aren't refreshing themselves the way they would have back in the day. There are modern spas nearby that perhaps use the same spring as a source for fresher, warmer water. There was a spout to taste clean water from deeper in the spring, before it got to the stagnant pool above, and it tasted warm and minerally.
After the baths we hoofed it over to the Royal Crescent, an impressive arc of 18th-Century townhouses overlooking a park where I walked Olga way back in 2013. (How time flies!)
And then it was time to catch our train back to London, so we hustled back to the train station via the promenade along the river, and got there with about ten minutes to spare. A few more random photos:
A ghost sign over a closed shop, harkening back to the days of film developing;
Some rabbit graffiti;
Some colorful hair;
And a sleepy dog on our train home. I used to often hold Olga in this exact position, but this dog, a whippet, looked to be about 10 kilos lighter than Olga!
Today, more sightseeing around London. Sorry I am largely absent from blogland at the moment but I am reading all your comments and I will catch up when I can!
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A much nicer day out than Stonehenge.....lots more to see! ( Better weather too)
ReplyDeleteAnd did you go down Milsom Street and see Jollys? That was a shock to see my old city again. I loved the Roman history of Bath, and the Celtic goddess Sulis remembered in Aqua Sulis. Fancy Olga walking in Victoria Park, just like my son does today and Moss used to do years ago. ;)
ReplyDeleteSounds like a great day out but I guess your gum-chewing niece Barbie kept saying teenage American things like, "I want a burger!", "It sucks!" and "Dad! Uncle Steve is almost as boring as you!"
ReplyDeleteAnd she probably said "like" all the time, as in "and she went like, it's cold here, and I said like, it's not, and we were, like, arguing..."
DeleteI am enjoying your travelogue! I love it how you can take trains places and I love the dog on the train!
ReplyDeleteI'd want to travel like the dog, laying across someone's lap.
ReplyDeleteAnd I like the colorful hair; it's not your usual design.
I found this amusing:
"The structure itself has been demolished and remade several times over the centuries."
... when you added that the current structure is 500 years old!!
We spent a night in Bath on our first Oxford Patristics conference, probably 25 years ago.
ReplyDeleteThe Roman baths are the best part of Bath!
ReplyDeleteI'm really enjoying posts about your brother's trip. This does look like a much better weather day, and that's a good thing, because walking around Bath is fun. (I have found it almost impossible to get a decent photo of the Royal Crescent that shows its arc. Leave it to the drones, I guess.) I knew you would love the baths as soon as I saw the title of the post for the very reason you did -- all the little stuff they have found that's interesting, like the curses! I think that was probably the best audio tour I've been on (with the War Rooms a good second). I confess I gave the Abbey a pass. Maybe next time! I can't wait to see what you all do next!
ReplyDeleteYour relatives are as avid as you to see all the things.
ReplyDeleteThe book I'm reading is set in 1880s London & one of the (quite irascible) characters has just returned from Bath. He didn't seem to find it all that refreshing. Ha!
ReplyDeleteYou are doing a great job of showing them (and us) your country. Did your brother and his family pick the destinations or have you been leading the tours?
ReplyDeleteDon't apologize! This is a rare and precious visit of your brother and his family and as such, you should definitely be giving it the whole of your attention. But I do thank you for the photos. I am ashamed to admit that I did not know actual baths were in Bath.
ReplyDeleteIf you get back to Bath have a wander up Walcot Street. And then there is the American museum... and the Pump Rooms by the bridge...
ReplyDeleteAnother busy day sightseeing around England. I was in Bath once back in the 90's and got to see the baths and the cathedral and just enjoyed the town. I did miss the crescent though. So many places to see!
ReplyDeleteI've heard of Bath but didn't realize it had hot springs at one time, or that the Romans had built bathes there. Very cool to see.
ReplyDeleteI revisited Bath on a day trip (like you, by train) by myself last year. Had the most excellent fish and chips for lunch at The Scallop Shell on Monmouth St. Yum. Did the Abbey, skipped the Roman baths (been there), walked a very circuitous route up to Royal Crescent. I also visited most of the bookstores in town--including small book stalls in a few locations. Managed to clock in quite a few miles of walking. Your weather was a bit better than mine, but I was there in March (so fewer tourists--a good trade-off). Sounds like it was a good day for the family.
ReplyDeleteno worries about catching up in blogland- you have a fascinating world at your door step! Thanks for the trip to Bath, I remember when you and Olga walked around beautiful curved houses, astonishing. Olga was such a good sport! Of course the dog on the the train made me yearn for Dexter and Olga and all of the good boys and good girls who have died. Looks like a. hectic splendid trip with your brother! Touristy...
ReplyDeleteI’m so glad you’re having a good time with your family. I’ve never been to Bath. It looks fascinating, although I very definitely will NOT be taking a bath. That’s the color of our pool in Connecticut the first month we lived there until I got the chemical balance figured out. I enjoyed seeing the photo of Olga and Dave from all those years ago... when Dave was 23.
ReplyDeleteSomething else interesting going on in your city at some point:
ReplyDeletehttps://nagonthelake.blogspot.com/2026/06/doreen-fletcher-corners.html
Bath seems a good choice (I've never been, but of course "know about it") as it is unique and at the same time as English as you can get. Also, it's good to see that your brother and his family are aware that England is not all about London. With a bit more time, they could have seen so much more, but one has to be realistic about such things.
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like a wonderful day seeing the high points of Bath. The weather cooperated which makes everything more enjoyable.
ReplyDeleteI've read several books where they go to take the waters at Bath. Looks like a fascinating place with lots of history. What a great visit with your brother and family!
ReplyDeleteYour brother and his family are probably having a blast! Bath looks interesting. I would also want to see more of England than just London.
ReplyDeleteHaha, living as I do in Wiltshire, we avoid Bath as much as we can because it's always so full of tourists. When hospital trips are necessary it's a nightmare!
ReplyDeleteThat green is lurid ….bath always reminds me of Tom Stephenson
ReplyDeleteI miss him