Friday, May 15, 2026

Haus des Meeres and Belvedere


I was amused by this poster across the street from Bill's apartment: "Usually I buy art at IKEA." (It also says "Easier than a Table at Mraz & Sohn," which is a Viennese restaurant.) It's an ad for this online art gallery.

Bill and I spent yesterday out and about, mainly at the Haus des Meeres, or House of the Sea. It's a public aquarium built inside an adapted flakturm, like the ones I showed you in yesterday's post. This is a bizarre idea, when you think about it -- housing sea creatures in a high-rise concrete bunker -- but I thought it was a brilliant way to re-use one of those Nazi-era hulks.


My only complaint is that it's not exactly spacious inside the tower -- lots of smallish rooms and winding hallways and stairs -- and there were quite a few people there yesterday. It was Ascension Day, a public holiday, with schools and many shops closed, so the place was swarming with kids.

There are great views of Vienna from the top deck.


In my video you'll also get a sample of the visible sea life at the aquarium, including small sharks practicing their synchronized swimming maneuvers, a colorful fish known as a queen coris or Formosa wrasse, and some jellyfish.


Here's what the building looks like from the outside. You can see the platforms known as "swallow's nests" that were designed to hold anti-aircraft guns, and now support wildlife exhibits. The video shows what they look like from above. (There were more than just fish at this aquarium -- there were also insects, small mammals like monkeys and lemurs, and reptiles.)


After enjoying the Haus des Meeres, we walked through a nearby shopping district along Mariahilfer Straße. We stopped at a place called Duran for "sandwiches," which were really single slices of bread with various toppings. I ambitiously bought a six-piece selection and ate them all with no problem. (They're pretty small.) The flavor combinations were quite sophisticated.


From there we decided to go to Belvedere Palace, one of the Hapsburg royal residences from the early 1700s. Along the way we passed lots of interesting architecture and scenery, like the row of colorful buildings above.


And here's the outside of Belvedere. You know those Hapsburgs -- always so understated.

I'd been to Belvedere Palace before, when I came to Vienna for the first time almost 30 years ago. So we didn't go inside. We simply wandered the grounds, including a formal garden with cascading fountains (which must have been engineering marvels in their day) and an adjacent botanical garden affiliated with the University of Vienna.


These sphinxes stood guard around the edges of the formal gardens.

By mid-afternoon we were exhausted, so we came back to Bill's and rested for a while. We had a modest dinner -- I got a falafel pita from a place near his flat and he had a leftover burrito from our Mexican meal the day before -- and in my ongoing campaign to educate Bill about '70s disaster flicks, we watched "The Towering Inferno." Bill pronounced it much better than "Earthquake," which I suppose is objectively true, though "Earthquake" will always hold a special place in my heart.

Alas, I've run out of time to show him "The Poseidon Adventure," though I will extract a promise from him to watch it. This afternoon I'm headed back to London!

25 comments:

  1. Thank you for the video, the city is beautiful and SO clean! A video of my city would show grime and graffiti and buildings badly in need of repair or paint. I'd like to know how the Viennese do it. Clearly our governments don't care if it won't make money for them. I have never seen so many jellyfish all at once 😀

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  2. What a great rapid tour of Vienna. I expect Bill needs a day in bed now after you leave. I liked the hapsburg sculpture of the guy trying to file his horse's teeth or whatever he's doing.
    Maybe your retirement profession will be high speed tours of London..

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  3. With the staircases, surely every day is Ascension Day at the Haus des Meeres! Ha-ha-ha! (Sometimes my humour is pure genius). I should have been a scriptwriter for "Sergeant Bilko"! It seems like you have had a great trip to Vienna in spite of deliberately persuading Bill to watch disaster films like a dealer trying to sell fentanyl to high school kids.

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  4. I have so liked that trip with you to Vienna, shame it has come to an end. I don't like penned in creatures though. Fish who swim forever round and round seems mean. Those open sandwiches looked delicious.

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  5. What a trip and what an amazing and beautiful city. Happy travels.

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  6. It looks and sounds like you've had a great trip to Vienna. My favorite photo is the one with the sandwiches!

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  7. That sounds like a lovely day. We used to have a membership to the aquarium in Newport, KY (just across the river from Cincinnati) & I loved watching all the graceful swimming.

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  8. The last shot of sphinx guarding is such a wonderful photo!
    The lad's got skills!
    A Mexican restaurant in Vienna?
    Glad that you and Bill got out and about- for our sake- intense shots of the city from above. A heavy looking city- massive. Love the video and feel sorry for the fish , day after day, same ol' same ol'- I am familiar with that "trapped" feeling.

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  9. The sandwich shop looked mighty tasty. I'm always a sucker for experiencing local cuisine whenever I'm in a new country.

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  10. Vienna is certainly a beautiful city -- I'm wondering how much bombing it got during the war because it certainly looks very well preserved. And that's a terrific use for that building. I'm a sucker for an aquarium and that looks beautiful (and with wonderful views, too.) Jellyfish are a favorite of mine, so thanks for including them! I think you kept Bill on his toes! (I agree with Bill on Towering Inferno -- hope he does indeed watch Poseidon!)

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  11. I'm glad they turned that Nazi relic into something much more positive, and the view from the top is stunning!

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  12. They certainly have packed a LOT of buildings into that city. Thanks for the tour, I really knew nothing about Vienna so this was very interesting, Steve.

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  13. That Flakturm is much nicer as an aquarium. The buildings in Vienna are beautiful. We don't have old buildings in Alberta, the province only became a province in 1905. Before that it was part of the NWT and populated by indigenous people who didn't build like Europeans do, but who did live here for more than 13,000 years.

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  14. The jellyfish are fascinating to watch. Already back to London? That really was a short visit. I hope Bill won‘t feel even lonelier now that he‘s all on his own again.
    Vienna looks a great city to explore, and everybody tells me I should go and see it for myself; I have relatives there but we‘re not in touch.

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  15. Vienna has great architecture and the repurposed building for the aquarium is brilliant.
    I love light lunches like the one in your photo. Art on a plate!

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  16. I had no idea Vienna was so large or had so many people living in it. Unless 3/4's of those buildings are empty which I doubt. The video kept reminding me of some incredible illustrations in a children's book.
    Those jellyfish are simply ethereal. And I love the shark dance.
    What a nice little get-away you've had.

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  17. Those European palaces were/are so big. Did they really use all those rooms? Thanks for the tour of Vienna. What does Bill do when you aren't there?

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  18. A brief but very busy stay. I enjoyed your videos, thank you.

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  19. I love that view from the deck, great video panning around the city. You had a nice little tour around the city.

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  20. I love aquariums and think that's a brilliant way to repurpose the high-rise bunker! Those colorful buildings are a treat for the eyes, too.

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  21. The Poseidon Adventure was actually good--didn't it win an award? I have watched Towering Inferno but not Earthquake, so I can't judge them. :) You've fit a lot into your stay! I love the aquarium/zoo(?) concept.

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  22. A short stay but a good stay!
    Lovely photographs.
    Hope your flight back is/was good.

    All the best Jan

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  23. You are in a very beautiful area.

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  24. Hapsburgs understated -- that's funny. I love the pastel buildings. The Poseidon Adventure is the best one. Bill had better follow through on his promise. I don't remember Earthquake.

    Love,
    Janie

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