Wednesday, May 13, 2026

Wien


Well, as you can see, I have made it to Österreich. I'm in my friend Bill's apartment near the Taborstraße underground station, in what he calls his "sun room" -- a spacious lofty room with a curved wall of windows at the corner of the building. Here's the view:


Not too shoddy! The only downside is, Bill and his husband David moved here in January and none of their stuff has arrived. So the only things in the sunroom are a lamp and WiFi router (on the floor) and a big sofa, which is where I'm sleeping. The whole space has a very repossessed look, kind of like Demi Moore's apartment at the end of "St. Elmo's Fire," when the creditors have come and hauled away her furniture. Several of the other rooms in Bill's place have nothing in them at all. Thank God for the sofa.

Bill's husband isn't here either -- he's back in New York working for a few months. That's partly why I wanted to come and visit poor Bill, who is utterly by himself. He doesn't know anyone here and doesn't speak German. He seems fine with it but I felt he could use some company, and since I have the time, why not?

I haven't seen Bill in 15 years, but he was present when Dave and I got Civil Unioned in New Jersey and he hung out with us quite a bit back in the brief time we lived there. In fact, he helped me get my job with Gannett after I was laid off by The New York Times Co. (Never mind that I was not a huge fan of Gannett -- he did warn me.) I've known Bill since the '90s, when we were both active in the National Lesbian and Gay Journalists Association (NLGJA).


So, anyway, we haven't really done much yet. We went out for dinner last night to a neighborhood place where I had salad with a piece of fish on it -- better than I'm making it sound -- and then took a walk afterwards to the Stephansplatz just so I could orient myself.

The statue above is Johann Nestroy, a singer/actor/playwright who is renowned in Austria. According to Wikipedia (which is never wrong), he wrote a play called "Einen Jux will er sich machen," which Google translates as "He Wants to Have Some Fun." It served as the source material for Thornton Wilder's "The Matchmaker," which in turn eventually became "Hello, Dolly!" So there's some Austrian theatre trivia for you, in case it comes up in your next pub quiz.

A Communist flyer posted near our restaurant last night

My flight here was mostly uneventful. At Heathrow, in the waiting area, I sat across from three 30-ish young adults who seemed to be flying together with a chaperone. One of them, a woman, was having a tearful meltdown, saying she "wanted to go home to Mum." The chaperone kept trying to convince her she would have fun, blah blah blah, and eventually they did head off together for some airplane. Hopefully the poor woman's mood improved, or that's going to be a long trip.


There is lots of graffiti here. Some of it is quite amazing, and some of it not so much. I could make myself crazy trying to photograph it all!


This phrase, according to Google, translates to: "Women in the resistance."

Today we're headed to the park adjacent to Bill's flat, and possibly along the nearby canal. The park features a couple of towering Nazi-era fortress-like structures made of concrete, apparently so massive that tearing them down isn't an option -- Bill tells me one has been turned into an aquarium! Should be interesting to see.

Note to self: Buy coffee, milk and sugar. Bill, bless his heart, is a tea-drinker, and yours truly needs his java in the morning.

26 comments:

  1. Almost half a year and no furniture arrival?? That's not good! Why is it held up I wonder? The view from the window is lovely and the street looks so clean.

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  2. It would be a challenge to live here, and not learn German. Vienna has a great transport network, and lots of museums.

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  3. Poor Bill - but not quite so poor considering the area they live in 😊
    He could use the months without his husband to learn German. I would not want to live somewhere where I don‘t speak the language at least to a basic degree, but I guess it‘s not too hard to get by with English in a metropolitan city like Wien.

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  4. We visited the aquarium in the flak tower. Some great views up there.

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  5. So kind of you to visit Bill and brighten his lonely Viennese days and nights with your scintillating conversation, joke-telling and reminiscing. By the way, Johann Nestroy did not rear his head at The Greystones pub quiz last night. I think I will be waiting until the apocalypse for that to happen.

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  6. Your view! And you have a sofa! Such an incredible city. Can’t wait to read more of your experience. How is your German?

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  7. That view is spectacular, but how lonely Bill must be with his husband gone and living in a new country where he doesn't speak the language. And none of his belongings! That's rough. Is he making an effort to learn some German? Time for a crash course, I think!

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  8. Poor Bill does indeed need an old friend to come and visit. I know you're having a good time but you're also making his life a little sweeter right now. What a relief it must be for him to have you there.
    For some reason, the idea of graffiti in Vienna is hard to imagine.

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  9. Even the sparse apartment sounds nice though that lack of coffee? Yeah, I'd be shopping to.

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  10. It sounds like your friend could certainly use the company. It has to be hard living in a place where you don't speak the language, alone without your family and with no personal belongings. That is a nice view out the window. I'm struck by how neatly all those cars are parked on both sides of the street.

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  11. A 30-ish person having a melt down and wishing to see their mom sounds like someone with a lot of issues.

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  12. Good On Ya And What A First Trip While Retired - Love That Point Perspective Photo - Yes , Must Have A Cup Of Joe After A Night On The Sofa - Keep Shooting Photos

    Walk On Brother ,
    Cheers

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  13. I don't think this is how Bill and spouse planned it. Good thing there's a sofa anyway! He must feel pretty stranded. I like how you reframed a fun trip as a mercy mission!

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  14. Will you meet up with David and his Sweet Bear since I think he is in Vienna also according to his blog? What a coincidence!
    I really don't know much about Vienna at all. Hope you enjoy your visit.

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  15. Exciting adventures in retirement - so it is already beginning, could do with some furniture though.

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  16. It sounds like a wonderful trip so far and a lovely city. I'm so glad you are there for Bill -- that has to be tough, being in a country where you don't know the language, have no furniture and waiting for your partner to arrive. I hope he doesn't have to wait too long. (Do they have any idea what has happened to their stuff? That's a long time to wait!)

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  17. I have so many questions! Just being nosy. I'm sure he's glad of your visit. Must be a little lonely but maybe enough people speak enough English that it's not too difficult to communicate. I noticed the same thing about Lisbon, so much graffiti and people and authorities don't seem to mind.

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  18. Lucky man, Vienna! Enjoy your time and your visit with Bill.

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  19. You are a good friend! Vienna was not my favorite place but of course I was travel weary, it was winter, women smoked cigars and wore felt hats. It was icy. I do hope that you two have an interesying time and eat something delish. Cool that you only have to pop on a short flight and be elsewhere! England is a great stepping stone, isn't it?

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  20. Living in a strange country is trying, but it will be a wonderful experience . . . eventually.

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  21. I was in Vienna once, and I really liked the city. However, I did notice just how much graffiti there was. I don't usually mind graffiti, but I remember thinking in Vienna that it was everywhere!

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  22. The view from Bill's flat is phenomenal.
    4 months without furniture seems outrageous. Has the furniture fallen off a cargo ship? How much longer does Bill have to wait for his furniture or get reimbursed for the loss?
    Touring Vienna sounds like good fun and great for Bill to have you with him and share some good times.
    As for the language, I am told you can use your iPhone to translate on-the-spot, real-time. A friend just returned from Thailand, and he used his iPhone frequently for translation.
    I am with you 100%...Yes, to the morning Java.

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  23. Good on you for visiting your friend Bill, sounds like some company is just what he needs. We were in Vienna in 2014 for the start of a bike trip to Prague and to us a lot of the architecture was fortress like. In fact those structures you are going to see are likely Vienna's Flak towers built by the Nazis in WWII. Here's a link: https://oncastles.com/flak-towers-of-vienna/ Also, if you have time take a walk by the American Embassy and notice how unfriendly the guards are, they were astonishing rude and threatening then, one wonders what they're like now. Cheers!

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  24. How nice that you took on the "burden" of helping a friend out! Seriously, I'm sure you two will have fun checking out his new home city. A great view and a couch sound good enough to me for a visit.

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  25. Tea, oh, dear! I am definitely with you on needing my morning coffee. Bill sounds very brave to deal with no furniture, no husband and a new place where he doesn't speak the language. Have a great visit!

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  26. That's a beautiful view, but they've been there since January and still don't have their stuff? Where is it? I'm glad you went to visit Bill. He must be having a rough time of it.

    Love,
    Janie

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