Tuesday, July 9, 2024

Sugarloaf


Yesterday's adventure was to visit Sugarloaf, or Pão de Açucar, the gigantic pointy rock in Rio's harbor. There's a cable car that carries passengers to a viewing platform on top, offering panoramas over all of Rio. In fact that's where James Bond and his steel-dentured nemesis Jaws battled it out in the movie "Moonraker," which as you may recall Dave and I watched not long ago. They were dangling over Rio from that cable car.

Of course our trip was much milder than Bond's. We stayed inside the cable car. Jaws was nowhere to be seen. And the weather was a little dubious, as you can see in my photo above -- lots of cloud cover and wind.


We still got quite the view, though, showing Copacabana Beach stretching off in a gentle curve to that point in the distance. Out of sight beyond that point is Ipanema Beach -- more about that in a moment. The tiny beach in the immediate foreground is called Praia Vermelha.


Here's the same view showing some of the viewing platform. And of course I have a video, so you can get a sense of the WIND! It wasn't particularly chilly, as you can see from everyone wearing shorts.


I swear I did not film that young man trying to hold down his shirt for any salacious reasons. But hey, a little human scenery doesn't hurt the landscape scenery!

On the opposite side of Sugarloaf we could look out into the bay and across to Niterói, a suburb of Rio. We could also see dozens and dozens of small boats anchored by the yacht club down below.

Rio really is a remarkably beautiful place. Such strange geology, with all these upthrust granite rocks everywhere. (Apparently, as I've just now read on Wikipedia, these types of formations are known as "Bornhardts." Who knew?)


From there we were driven to the Selarón Steps, which I'd never heard of before, but they're a thing to see in Rio. I was amused by this gigantic mural of fashion icon Iris Apfel nearby. I'm not sure who the little girl is, but maybe there's meant to be a contrast here -- the beauty of both youth and age?


The Selarón Steps are the work of Chilean artist Jorge Selarón, who back in 1990 began tiling a section of the municipal steps near his house. Eventually this became a huge project involving donated tiles from more than 50 countries -- Dave and I saw specific tiles referencing Texas, the Michelin man, European Impressionist painters and lots more. It really is quite an astonishing artwork.

From there we went back to the hotel and went to find lunch. We wound up at an unpretentious restaurant overlooking Copacabana Beach called Maxim's, where I had a delicious shrimp-and-rice dish and Dave had a meat stew. We both loved Maxim's.


Dave then went back to the hotel and I decided to take a walk along Rio's famous beaches.

Speaking of mosaics, the sidewalks of Rio are paved with stones in patterns. On Copacabana Beach, the waterfront sidewalk has a wave pattern similar to the one above. On Ipanema, it's a more blocky pattern. I saw all this firsthand by walking the entire length of Copacabana and almost all of Ipanema -- about 7 miles round-trip, according to Google Maps.

Our friend Keith -- who's been to Rio many times -- told us that Copacabana is considered the more traditional, mainstream beach, while Ipanema is more Bohemian and trendy. I could see the difference visiting both. Ipanema seemed smaller-scale and more intimate, while Copacabana seems very wide and perhaps more commercial. Still, both remarkable beaches!

Last night for dinner we were back poolside at the Copacabana Palace hotel, caipirinhas in hand! (Well, beer for Dave.) We love that place!

25 comments:

  1. The pavement patterns remind me of Barcelona.
    There was a very high end French restaurant here called Maxims. I wonder if the name is meaningful.

    The steps look and sound interesting, but so crowded.

    You seem like you are having such a great time. The tourist income must be huge for Brazil.

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  2. What an incredible place. Another great video and, as always, wonderful photos that really give me a sense of what you’re experiencing.

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  3. What a day! The paving on Copacabana seafront is so Portuguese. Thank you for showing us Rio Steve! Have you been mugged yet? No trip to Rio is complete without a mugging to write about. Maybe that will be in tomorrow's blogpost.

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  4. You're showing us sights I'd never heard of, like the huge tiled artwork and the tiled walkways. I didn't expect such a great vicarious trip. Thank you. And Portuguese thrown in -- Sugarloaf seems to be a literal translation!

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  5. Love the photos, though my knees got twitchy at the heights--not my favorite thing.

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  6. Wow! You are certainly seeing everything, Steve. Those views are really something.

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  7. I would have hated being assigned to install the mosaic tiles on that sidewalk. My back screams just looking at it.

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  8. Here's a bit of trivia- in 2006 the Rolling Stones performed a free concert for one and a half million people from the Copacabana beach.
    What gorgeous scenery! And I just love all that red around the steps. We really do live on an amazing planet, don't we?

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  9. You are really giving us all quite a tour! I am enjoying this as much as you and Dave are, I think.

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  10. You two are maxing it out and well done. I'm loving the photos and videos -- it's an area of which I know little and it looks like a wonderful time.

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  11. I love that view! Wowza! And now I want shrimp & rice.

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  12. Wonderful video. The views up there are breathtaking. I love the one over all those tall buildings. Rio certainly looks like a beautiful place.

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  13. P.S. Seeing Iris Apfel in Rio is certainly a surprise.

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  14. Really enjoying your South American tour. I sent a link to your blog to my friend in Denver who was in Rio during the Olympics some years back.

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  15. The views from the platform are amazing and your video and photos are wonderful. Your video shows that the country is very mountainous with homes/buildings built between the mountains/hills. Nice coastline too. The red stairs are brilliant. Your meals sound terrific too. 7 miles is a good walk.

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  16. So exciting! Thanks for bringing us along.

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  17. The paving does remind me of photos I've seen of Portugal. What a stunning city! I've never wanted to visit but I might change my mind. I like "The Girl from Ipanema" which makes me feel about 100 years old. The difference between the 2 beaches is a bit like Santa Monica versus Venice. Venice is very funky.

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  18. Just love that mural very much. So rich human emotion laid bare. The market is very interesting too

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  19. Remember the Michelin Man has a name: Bibendum!

    Now you have me singing The Girl From Ipanema! I'm okay with that.

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  20. I'd heard of Copacabana, Ipanema and Sugar Loaf but didn't know where they were. Great photos.

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  21. Wow! Such a beautiful city, great photos Steve, thanks for the tour!!

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  22. The geology of Rio and surroundings is mind-blowing. I had no idea - somehow I was expecting tropical lowlands merging into palm-festooned gently curving beaches. Um, not quite! Bornhardts, eh?!

    You are a fabulous tour guide!

    Chris from Boise

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  23. I love the paving and the steps. Those giant rocks are granite? My favourite stone. Great views from Sugarloaf.

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  24. I am really enjoying your holiday ! Great video today. Did those cable cars sway in the wind?

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  25. Andrew: I think tourism must be incredibly important for Rio's economy.

    Mitchell: I'm glad! I'm missing my editing software. Dave's computer doesn't give me the same photo-editing control I have with Lightroom.

    YP: So far no muggings! But I almost never carry anything when I'm out and about on my own -- a single credit card and a minimum of cash, and that's it. I usually leave my phone in the hotel room, unless I'm with a guided group.

    Boud: Do you know Portuguese? It's such a beautiful language. I keep slipping into Spanish which I'm sure annoys the Brazilians. (And I don't speak Spanish well either!)

    Bob: Good thing you didn't have to do stunts on "Moonraker"!

    Ellen D: They really are! (And as it turns out, they were our best views of the city, because Corcovado was kind of a bust.)

    Ed: I can't imagine the amount of manual work it must have taken. And how old are they? How often do they have to be redone? I wonder.

    Ms Moon: It really IS an amazing planet. So much diversity. I can easily imagine the Stones gathering that many people in Rio! I used to have a t-shirt (mailed to me by my pen pals) from a gigantic outdoor concert called Rock in Rio that occurred in 1985 or so. Lots of famous stars performed, but I can't remember who now.

    Debby: Good! Vicarious travel can be fun. (And it's much more comfortable!)

    Jeanie: It's well worth a trip!

    Bug: Shrimp and rice is hard to beat. In this case it was made with saffron, onions, and red bell peppers, and the rice had broccoli in it. (Yum!)

    Sharon: I was so surprised to see Iris Apfel turn up here! She really was a fashion icon.

    Catalyst: Excellent! I hope he's enjoying it!

    Susan: Coastal Brazil, at least in the south, is VERY mountainous. In fact our guide in Argentina told us that's why Argentine beef is better than Brazilian beef -- the Brazilian cows get too much exercise going up and down hills!

    Sabine: Glad you're liking it!

    Margaret: Yes, exactly. In fact I told Dave that very thing.

    Roentare: I love it too! An excellent painting and wonderful contrasts between the two subjects.

    Kelly: Yes! Monsieur Bibendum! Dave and I have been to the restaurant in London that is his namesake, in the old Michelin building in Kensington.

    Red: Hopefully this post gives you a sense of the geography!

    Jim: You are welcome! It really IS beautiful. I could easily come back.

    Chris: Yeah, the mountains are astonishing, and sticking up right out of the sea. It's an incredible landscape.

    River: Granite and quartz, apparently -- or so says Wikipedia.

    Frances: I'm sure they must, though I didn't notice it when I was inside the car. They're pretty big so I imagine sway is kept to a minimum.

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