Yesterday was pretty much a full day of travel. Dave and I left our hotel in Puerto Iguazu about 8:30 a.m., took two flights (via São Paulo) and checked into our hotel in Rio de Janeiro right around sunset. I didn't have an opportunity to take any decent pictures, which is why you're getting Waterlogue versions of a few snapshots I took from the plane and from the window of our taxi.
That's Corcovado, above, with the statue of Christ the Redeemer looking out over the city.
And that's the Sugarloaf, another famous Rio landmark, in the evening light. We're going to get closer looks at both of those in the next few days.
So yeah, I'm in Rio! Hard to believe. This has been a bucket-list destination for me for most of my life, as I think I've written before. I had pen pals in Rio when I was in high school -- three girls named Teresa, Frima and Flavia. I am unfortunately not in touch with any of them now, but between their letters and the many movies I saw as a young person that took place here -- primarily "Black Orpheus," which introduced the world to Bossa Nova back in 1960 -- I developed a longing to visit.
The drive from the airport took us past modern office and apartment buildings, with smaller ornate older structures sandwiched in between. The waterfront was green and park-like, and lots of people were out and about, playing basketball and sitting in cafes.
Our hotel is a couple of blocks off Copacabana Beach. After we checked into our small but comfortable room -- which has a terrible view of the back walls of surrounding buildings -- Dave and I walked down to the waterfront. By then it was dark so we ducked into the Copacabana Palace hotel, a big white elegant building that is MUCH grander than where we're staying, and had dinner. I had a couple of caipirinhas and a burrata-and-fig salad, and we sat out by the pool and admired all the beautiful people. We were definitely underdressed.
(I don't have photos because we left our phones and almost everything else in our hotel safe. Street crime in Rio is legendary, and I'm still trying to gauge the risks.)
Our hotel room has lyrics by songwriter Chico Buarque painted on the ceiling. They're from his song "Roda Viva" and they're in Portuguese, but the English translation is:
In our hearts, the nostalgia grows
It tries hard to stop time
But there comes the wheel of life
and takes the nostalgia far away
I haven't seen enough of Rio yet to know for sure, but I feel like this visit will be somewhat nostalgia-busting for me, supplanting my romanticized ideals of Rio with a more realistic vision of what life is like here. And that's not a bad thing.
Well, you mentioned crime before I had a change to mention the threat. It will be interesting to see if is was a wise move to use the hotel safe. It has always seemed like such an exciting city to me.
ReplyDeleteI have been following along with your journey and enjoying it a great deal. I'd been lulled into thinking the Brazil was idyllic. Your mention of street crime was a bit of a jolt. It shouldn't have been. I've read a lot about the homeless children who live in the streets and are both predator and prey. That is a sad situation.
ReplyDeleteI am pleased that you are well aware of the high level of street crime in Rio. Stay safe! My brother Robin went swimming off Copacabana and when he got back to the beach all of his stuff had been stolen - including wallet, passport, hotel key and air ticket. Not nice!
ReplyDeleteIs the song constantly playing in your head? It would in mine. We had Brazilian friend and neighbor in Santa Barbara who regularly had us over for caipirinhas. She made her own cachaça with sugar cane she brought back every year after visiting family. They were heavenly! (I wonder if it was legal to bring back sugar cane.)
ReplyDeleteThank you for taking us along with your incredible journey!
ReplyDeleteJust popping by to suggest if you have some free time and not already planning on it, visit the botanical gardens. A little haven in the craziness of Rio. You've been touring my childhood stomping grounds. Thanks for the tours.
ReplyDeleteAnother movie, a personal favorite: Now, Voyager (1942). Charlotte and Jerry spend the night on Sugarloaf Mountain.
ReplyDeleteI'm enjoying your travelogue!
Sad about the crime rate; that puts a damper on enjoying your time.
ReplyDeleteI never thought much about Rio until last fall when my daughter had a Brazilian lab partner from Rio whom we invited over to supper one evening. She talked a lot about her love of Rio and the culture there and it seemed like a very magical place to perhaps visit someday. She is a college volleyball recruit and often plays volleyball on the beaches of Rio.
ReplyDeleteIt will be interesting to see if Rio matches up against what you've imagined all this time. You may fall in love with aspects of it that you never even realized were part of it.
ReplyDeleteI'm sure you are pleased to be there after a full day of traveling. I can't wait to see your photos as you tour the city. I've never been to Rio but I think my images of the city are all "movie" related. Have fun!
ReplyDeleteWell, stay safe and have a lovely visit, Steve! Can't wait to see all of the fabulous sites you will share with us!
ReplyDeleteI can't wait for further updates!
ReplyDeleteDo you remember the movie "Blame It On Rio"? A 51 year old man with a teenager, yuck. Times have changed thank goodness.
ReplyDeleteI love those Waterlogue versions of your photos. I'm loving the South American tour.
I read a book series that took place in Brasil that was pretty violent, but of course it was fiction. Hopefully your stay won't involve any crime! Thanks for the ear worm! (Copa, Copacabana...)
ReplyDeleteIf it lives up to expectations or not, I'm envious regardless - have a great time
ReplyDeleteThe nostalgia busting is interesting -- I think that's happened to me before. I love the waterlogues as a fun change of pace. And it does sound good-- apart from the crime. Your dinner sounds great. Seems to me Copacabana Beach was an NYT crossword puzzle clue today!
ReplyDeleteIf Rio doesn't look and sound exactly like Black Orpheus, it's not authentic! I learned a few words of Portuguese from many viewings as a student.
ReplyDeleteYou're really getting around.
I can't believe you are actually there! WOW, exotic! I reckon Big Jesus is watching over the folks floating over to sugar loaf, in those little scary cages.
ReplyDeleteSeeing Rio first hand will reveal reality of the city. I know little about Rio and look forward to your posts.
ReplyDeleteMy cousin and a friend worked in Rio and loved it. Your visit may dispel your romantic version of it, but you will still find things to enjoy about the city. (you already are!)
ReplyDeleteWaterlogue did a beautiful job with your photos.
ReplyDeleteI had no idea the Copacabana was so huge! From the song "her name was Lola..etc" I got the idea it was one of those bar-on-the-beach type places.
ReplyDeleteAndrew: So far no problems with the safe, though it has occurred to me that someone could easily carry the whole thing away!
ReplyDeleteDebby: I think Rio is like any big city, really. You just have to be careful and keep your wits about you.
YP: Oh, what a nightmare! I'm guessing that was some time ago? I've seen lots of warnings never to leave stuff unattended on the beach.
Mitchell: I think there is some problem in the USA with the legality of cachaça, but I can't quite remember why. Definitely importing raw cane would be against the rules!
Jennifer: You are welcome! It's fun for me to create this travelogue and be able to look back on it myself later.
Celie: Thanks for the suggestion! We might just do that! I'm also toying with going to see Niemeyer's Museum of Contemporary Art in Niteroi.
Jonboi: Good to know! You know, I don't think I've ever seen "Now, Voyager" and I had no idea any of it took place in Rio.
Bob: Not really. It's just a matter of being cautious. Dave and I aren't really nightlife people anyway so the likelihood we'll be out much after dark is slim!
Ed: I can see how volleyball players would get REALLY good playing on the beach here!
Ms Moon: So far, so good. I have found it to be a magical place.
Sharon: It's always fun to visit a place we know from movies and see how it compares in real life!
Ellen D: I will keep you posted!
Bug: Watch this space!
Pixie: YES! I went to see that movie when I was in high school (because of the Rio connection). It was terrible and yeah, I can't imagine how anyone ever thought that was an acceptable plot.
Kelly: Dave and I were talking about the song "Copacabana" and whether it was named for here. It specifically says "the hottest spot north of Havana," as I recall, so I'm thinking it doesn't take place in Rio. (The nightclub is probably named for the beach, though...?)
Bike Shed: Thanks. So far, so good!
Jeanie: Oh, that's funny. What are the odds? Ha!
Boud: Well, "Black Orpheus" WAS 65 years ago (!) so things are bound to be a bit different. :)
Linda Sue: Big Jesus is watching over everything! Unfortunately yesterday he was socked in by clouds. We couldn't even see him.
Susan: I will keep you posted!
Margaret: Yeah, I think it's healthy to set aside whatever imaginary conclusions we may have and learn about reality, right?
Catalyst: I am a huge fan of Waterlogue and have found that when I take photos I consider substandard, Waterlogue can often rescue them.
River: I think the Copacabana in the song IS a bar, but it's not here in Rio. It's probably just named for this Copacabana.