Saturday, February 21, 2026

"Balls of Steel" Gazpacho


Well, we got back to Málaga without incident yesterday. Car travel is really pretty awesome, if you don't mind the expense -- which I do, at least enough not to do it regularly. But it's hard to beat in terms of convenience.

Before we left Granada, I took a walk up into the hilly neighborhood just below the Alhambra to photograph the street art there. Dave and I saw some amazing murals when we rode up by taxi the day before, and walking gave me a chance to stretch my legs and get some fresh air before getting in the car for the hour-and-a-half drive to Málaga. I stopped in a park and saw this guy:


That's a lot of dog! He was brushing their coats and as he'd work on one, the other two watched me intently, as if I were a gigantic dog treat.

The car ride was smooth and back in Málaga we checked in to the same hotel where we'd stayed earlier in the week, coincidentally on Calle Granada. Then we headed out to the Plaza Carbón for lunch.

The adjacent Plaza del Siglo

We found a table in the shade and I ordered an excellent sangria and some salmorejo, a cold blended tomato soup similar to gazpacho. It was all excellent until I got to the bottom of the salmorejo bowl and found these:


They looked like tiny ball bearings, the size of BBs. I've been warned in the past while eating birds like grouse or pheasant that they could contain birdshot, but there was no poultry in my gazpacho! We could only theorize that an immersion blender used to mix the soup had somehow self-destructed and thrown off these ball bearings. The servers were very apologetic and gave me the soup for free. Fortunately it was smooth enough that no chewing was required, and they were very easy to detect so I'm reasonably sure I didn't swallow any. (Will I set off the airport metal detectors?)

After lunch Dave went back to the room for a nap (you can see this is our pattern) and I wandered around Málaga. I wanted to get out of the tourist zone, so I headed west and north, winding my way through the streets roughly between the hotel, the river and the Plaza de Capuchinos. I walked past graffiti saying (in Spanish) things like, "there is no Covid-19," "the virus is the television," and "chemtrails: they are spraying us." So there are crazy people in every country.


I passed this fun mural by Sara Fratini on the Calle Padre Mondejar. I couldn't get the whole thing in a photo so I had to make a video, made more awkward by several streetlamps on the sidewalk that I had to step around!

Finally, last night Dave and I decided to head down to the beach. Málaga is known as a beach resort but I'd only barely seen the Mediterranean, and Dave hadn't seen it at all. So we walked to the Playa de la Malagueta, where we found a restaurant that seated us just at sunset. We had some good seafood tapas, followed (for me) by some fish stew and a strawberry dessert made with Inés Rosales cake ice cream. I knew about Inés Rosales cakes from Mitchell's blog, so I was glad to try it, albeit in ice cream form.


As we ate dinner, a group of about 20 teenagers on some kind of school trip -- we think they were American -- gathered on the walkway just outside the restaurant windows and ate pizza, which proved distracting. And then some little kids eating with a family in the restaurant ran out onto the beach to play on the Malagueta sign (above). It's hard to tell, but there are six of them in that picture. I don't think I would be an overprotective parent, but I'm not sure I'd have felt comfortable having my under-10 kids running around on a dark beach with no parent nearby! (The adults stayed seated indoors.)

Soon, we'll be off to the airport. Thank you, by the way, for slogging through my overly long Spain posts. I know I've been cramming a lot in here each day and I appreciate your indulgence. They will help me remember this trip in the future. Coming to you tomorrow from London!

52 comments:

  1. I don't find your posts overly long at all. There is so much of interest to read in them.
    Your whirlwind trip of the sunny south sounds like it was pretty good, despite the additional unplanned expense. It is an area we have often visited and I enjoyed returning via your blogposts!

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    1. I hope I did Andalucía justice for someone who knows it so well! Yeah, I wasn't happy about the money, but as you know, travel is all about being flexible.

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  2. Not overly long at all.
    I remember my grandmother using silver balls like those for cake decorations, and as I recall, they were hard but edible. But I also think they were more shiny.
    I get Dave having a rest. Ray used to rest in the afternoon at our accommodation, wherever it was, while I would go out alone.
    I would not worry about letting kids run around on the beach at night. But I might if they were my direct responsibility. Having fun and safety is always a fine balance, and I feel western society has gone too far towards protecting children, whereby they don't learn how to protect themselves. Btw, although I am childless, I am expert about raising children.

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    1. Oh, yeah, I know those cake decorations. But these were DEFINITELY real metal! I agree that children should be given freedom, but witnessing them running around out there in the dark set off my alarm bells.

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  3. I think you create the most marvellous travelogues and the little videos just add a touch of class. Especially for those of us that don't travel.

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    1. I'm glad you enjoyed them! I always worry that I'm burdening people with too much detail.

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  4. I sometimes think of all the bbs I probably ate back in the day with pheasants. Some family friends would come down to our farm every fall to shoot pheasants and inevitably, they would fix a meal of them once during the visit and it never failed that I would end up with a piece with bbs still lodged in it. I'm guessing they were lead since I think lead, while on the way out, wasn't as well known to be toxic as it is today. Any dose I got wasn't lethal... yet.

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    1. I've had bird shot in poultry before too, even in fine restaurants. I'd make allowances for that. But there was no poultry in this soup! Was someone hunting tomatoes?

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  5. Your Spanish posts have been wonderful. The murals in Córdoba are beautiful. Shots and video of Málaga bring back sweet memories. I’d never seen that mural in Málaga. I was disappointed to see Waldo because I was enjoying all the black and white (and original). Picky picky picky. So glad you ended up having such an excellent trip despite the myriad of glitches.

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    1. I thought Waldo was a fun touch, especially for kids, but it does seem a bit gimmicky. (And were the appropriate copyright permissions sought? Inquiring minds want to know.)

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  6. It has been fun reading about your adventures.

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    1. I'm glad you enjoyed them! You are the travel authority!

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  7. I've loved the posts. from the food to the architecture to meeting Mitchell and SG, to dogs and birds and unruly kids.
    I have made salmorejo and never ever put ball bearings in it. 😃
    Safe travels home.

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    1. Well, clearly your salmorejo is deficient in iron! :)

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  8. These posts have been wonderful. Absolutely. And now you have introduced me to Sara Fratini whom I'd never heard of and I am charmed! Thank you for that.
    It's nice to know you had a relatively glitch-free day with the exception of the BB's or tiny ball bearings or whatever they were. I once found an antique looking nail in a bowl of black bean soup at a restaurant and I think they comped our entire meal which I certainly didn't expect. It didn't upset me too much. These things happen. And it cannot have escaped your notice the little metal beads look almost exactly like the decorative ones on your ring.
    I'm trying to decide if I think the children playing by themselves was something I'd worry about too much. How little is little? I remember when we first started going to Cozumel in the 80's, on Sunday nights people would gather in the plaza and children were allowed to run and play as they wanted. No one seemed concerned and so I wasn't either.

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    1. I'd never heard of Fratini either, but fortunately she signed her mural! I once had a vegetarian cookbook that recommended cooking beans with a rusty nail in order to boost the iron content. I wonder if that's what was going on for you? Seems like they'd remove the nail before serving!

      I think what worried me about the kids is that the beach was dark -- much darker than the picture would indicate, thanks to the iPhone's amazing night photography feature. If they'd been mine, I think I'd have wanted to be out there making sure they didn't stray toward the water.

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  9. Well, I hate to see "our" trip end! LOL I have enjoyed it immensely!

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    1. I'm glad you liked it! Fortunately your ticket was very inexpensive! :)

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  10. You've done a great job of showing us around these interesting cities, Steve. I think I spotted Waldo of "Where's Waldo" fame in that mural!

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  11. Your descriptions are like being there. You also give the worry of travel when things go wrong.

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    1. I hope to show both sides of the experience, in part so I can remember them myself.

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  12. You've packed a lot into just a few days. I for one, have enjoyed following along on your explorations. I read a story in the Times two days ago about about that train crash that hobbled you trip a bit. It was a story about the Times photographer and the photos he took that might have revealed the cause.

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    1. Oh yeah, I think I read that story too! Something about how he found a key piece of evidence that had been thrown off the tracks and into a gully below, or something like that? Not a small piece of evidence, as I recall -- something like a train car's undercarriage.

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  13. Is that sand in the foreground of the Malagueta sign? It has such an odd looking texture.

    Love the painted house with the cat and fish. I've enjoyed your trip and long posts from Spain so no need to apologise.

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    1. Yes, it's sand! Glad you liked the posts. The street art was really interesting in that area. I imagine roads leading up to the Alhambra are prime territory.

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  14. Your blog posts from Spain have been spectacular. I enjoyed every read.
    Finding odd things in a restaurant meal is a bit off putting. Finding BB's or ball bearings in soup a new one for sure. Overall, your meals were excellent.
    The beach looks lovely at sunset making a nice view while having dinner.
    Children unsupervised seems common to me. Some parents just trust all will be okay. I was not one of those parents, especially so in another country.

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    1. I don't think I would be a super-hovery parent, but this seemed a step too far!

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  15. This is our 16th winter in Andalucia. There has been a huge surge in the numbers visiting this year. Factor in UK school holidays and it's not been quiet.

    We used a car service to Go to Gibraltar. Probably paid too much but at least I'm still speaking to the other half, nobody had and accident or had to deal with traffic.

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    1. Sometimes it's best to just solve a problem, regardless of the expense. I wonder why travel to southern Spain is up so much this year? Is it still bouncing back after Covid? I knew we were in trouble when I couldn't get Alhambra tickets more than a month in advance!

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  16. I've loved the posts from Spain; they are giving me a desire to visit there again. That soup though! I wouldn't like the thought of having those metal balls in it. Dave is truly embracing the culture of the siesta. I love beaches and would always end up there when in Santa Monica to see my older daughter.

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    1. Dave embraced the culture of the siesta long before he ever went to Spain. LOL

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  17. And those are the biggest German Shepherds I've ever seen.

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    1. I KNOW! They were HUGE! I thought the same thing.

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  18. There is overprotective and stupid. I think that borders on stupid parenting. Great street art and I liked the dogs. I first had Ines Rosales tortas in England (Waitrose) and Jenny sent me some for Christmas. I just found them here -- I hope they cost less in the UK. ($9.00 for a pack of six.) I should check the evil empire or elsewhere before I cave in!

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    1. It was fun to try them, but I don't think I'll be seeking them out anytime soon. I'm perfectly happy with McVitie's biscuits!

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  19. We're going to Chemainus this summer, a small town known of it's murals, so I'll take photos too. I've greatly enjoyed your Spanish trip and have a good flight home.

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    1. Murals always make good blog posts, or at least good photos. I have never heard of Chemainus so I look forward to the pics!

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  20. Thanks for visiting Spain for us!
    See, I grew up in the country and live in a pretty countrified seaside town, and I easily remember a herd of kids going off and playing without supervision in a lot of situations that would probably be deemed "dangerous" - were we lucky or was the responsibility of looking after ourselves and each other enough to prevent us from harm? Is the scaffolding that we give to children and not allowing them to step up actually making the whole thing more frightful? I doubt we will ever have the answers to that - my husband and I disagree on the line quite often.

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    1. I think kids are generally pretty good at taking care of themselves, but at the same time, being on a dark beach in what is surely an unfamiliar city seems a step too far. Then again, I remember playing with friends next to ponds and using BB guns and nothing ever happened to us!

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  21. I've enjoyed all your holiday posts. That would be a little disconcerting to find the BBs in the soup. My first thought was birdshot, too, but I seriously doubt a restaurant uses hunted wildfowl as opposed to farmed. Besides, as you said.... it was gazpacho! Hope the trip home is/was smooth.

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    1. Yeah, the BBs were very strange. I think they have to be ball bearings. Which makes me wonder what other lubricants or machine bits may have worked their way into the soup. Bleah!

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    1. The minute our taxi rounded the bend and I saw it, I thought, "I need a picture of that!"

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  23. " I appreciate your indulgence..." Well I must say that it is nice to have one's indulgence and one's tolerance recognised. That apart, it appears that you have had a successful break in southern Spain - in spite of the transport issues. Assuming that Border Control have allowed you back into Great Britain, welcome home!

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    1. They did indeed open their arms in warm welcome. Or maybe they were trying to handcuff us?

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  24. I love that fish mural! It’s always lovely traveling with you Steve!

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    1. I'm glad you enjoyed it, and so good to see you back in blogland!

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  25. I have enjoyed tagging along.

    The gazpacho was a bit of a shock though. I would be very concerned about what is going on in that kitchen.

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  26. I really love the people wall you videoed. And those beautiful dogs that reminded me of Max who I still miss.

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    1. I'm sure they are lovely dogs and they seemed very comfortable with each other and their owner, but they made me a little nervous. And I'm a dog person!

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