No Kotor

As I mentioned at the end of yesterday's post, our plans changed and we spent the day at sea. We were supposed to go to Kotor, Montenegro, but someone -- I don't know whether it was our captain or the port officers in Kotor -- determined that it wouldn't be safe because of weather conditions. Dave and I were skeptical of this explanation because the weather report called for sunshine and maximum winds of 13 kph. Not exactly hurricane strength.

But I did some reading later and apparently Kotor can be a tricky port. It requires tenders (small shuttle boats) from the ship to land, and they have to zip through a relatively narrow channel to get to town. Apparently the area is prone to katabatic winds similar to the Santa Ana winds in California, and indeed there was a wind advisory in Dubrovnik, where we had been just the day before. Who knows what was going on. Gotta trust the captain.

That (above) was our view for much of the day, as we lounged around and read in our cabin. Still not too shabby! Of course there are also plenty of public places to go on the ship -- bars and restaurants and lounges. In late morning I went to the fitness center and spent about 40 minutes walking and running on a treadmill. I haven't run on a treadmill in probably 15 years, and I pushed myself pretty hard, but it felt good. I'm thinking about joining a gym again and this was a good reminder what that feels like.

It's hard to know where we are at any given moment, because there's just open water out there, sometimes with a faint line of a land form on the horizon. But then I found an online cruise ship monitoring site that gives our location. Yesterday we slowly made our way down the midpoint between the Albanian coast and Italy. At one point my phone pinged a cell tower in Greece, which I know because I got a "welcome to Greece!" message from my phone carrier. Now, as I look out at the water, I can see the tip of Italy's boot heel in the distance.

Sunset off Dubrovnik, Sunday night

I'm trying not to think too much about the carbon impact of this trip. As I understand it, cruise ships are tremendous consumers of fuel and generators of waste, so I'm aware we're not doing the planet any favors. Sometimes within the context of marital compromise you have to set aside personal qualms, you know? This is the world we live in.

And cruising is very pleasant. I understand why people like these sorts of trips. The ship is so comfortable, and we have anything we could want within easy reach. If I crave a kiwi fruit, it's there. If we need entertainment, there are games and puzzles and quizzes and any number of shows and that kind of thing. Fortunately, as we all know, I can pretty much entertain myself, though I was tempted -- lubricated by a martini -- to participate in the onboard archery competition last night. What could go wrong?

(Seriously, the arrows were tipped with rubber suction cups. Nothing could go wrong. But Dave was hungry so we proceeded to dinner instead.)

I'm even on track to burn through my backlog of New Yorkers!

Last night, being a glutton for punishment, I watched a new documentary on Netflix about the Costa Concordia disaster in 2012. Watching it while actually on a cruise ship may seem foolhardy, but it was really good and very dramatic. Dave fell asleep.

We're at sea again today before docking in Messina, in Sicily, tomorrow. I plan to spend some more time in the fitness center!

King's Landing

I'm getting a late start on the ol' blog this morning. I woke up at 3 a.m. or so, and lay there for a while before turning over and falling asleep again -- and the next thing I knew it was 7 a.m.! These staterooms are great for sleeping. We have a comfortable bed and blackout curtains, and though I don't register the movement of the ship I wouldn't doubt that one some cellular level I'm being lulled by the thrum of the engines.

We were in Dubrovnik yesterday, which, as we were continually reminded by our tour guide and by t-shirts and other tourist paraphernalia, is the filming location for the TV show "Game of Thrones." It fills in for King's Landing, the capital city in that mythical show. I've only ever seen the first season of "Game of Thrones" and I wasn't a huge fan, so this doesn't mean a whole lot to me, but it has become a driver of regional tourism.

I guess the production crew must use CGI to erase all the modern landscape features, like fiberglass boats.

Anyway, it was a beautiful little city, but positively packed with tourists. I knew even before getting here that it's considered one of the most over-touristed locations on the planet, because the old city itself is tiny, and when cruise ships come and dump thousands of people into its streets it becomes a seething mass of humanity. But we managed.

We wandered the ancient streets with our guide, hearing about the city's past and its massive fortified walls, which kept out the Venetians and the Ottomans and the Serbians and the Montenegrins and various other invaders over the centuries. (They didn't successfully keep out Napoleon or the Hapsburgs.) It was heavily damaged in the Yugoslavian civil war in the 1990s, but has been restored since.

Visitors can take stairs up to the top of the walls and walk along the battlements, but it costs 40 Euros, which I thought was excessive! I skipped that option.

Then Dave and I settled into a cafe, where our coffee came in these fun cups. We had some avocado toast and then I went wandering a bit more to take photos.

We were supposed to go up in a cable car, but there was initially some doubt whether that would happen. We had quite a bit of rain in the morning, followed by high winds, and when we first got into town the cable car was closed. But we got word from the guide just before our free time that it had reopened, thank goodness.

Here's our guide, Darko -- "like the scary American movie," he said. (He means "Donnie Darko," in case you haven't seen it. It's very good.) He befriended this crow on previous visits and as we walked up to the cable car, it landed on his hand, begging for treats. (It didn't eat the poisonous oleander flowers, don't worry.)

Here's the view to the south from the cable car terminal on the mountaintop above Dubrovnik. The mountains in the near distance are in Bosnia, and farther away in Montenegro.

And here's a video that will show you the descent from the cable car terminal, with views over the city. (And an opening clip showing the main square in Dubrovnik. All the bleachers and plywood are for the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, featuring outdoor theater, music and dance performances.)

We were supposed to go ashore in Montenegro today, but apparently those plans have changed because of weather -- something about the tenders to shore not being able to operate safely. From my seat by the window it looks fine out there, bright and sunny, but I guess it must be very windy. Fortunately Dave and I didn't buy an excursion today so we're not missing anything pre-planned. We were just going to go into town and hang out, which we can do on the ship!

A River Cruise and Split

I spent most of our day in Split actually not in Split, but in the small town of Omis (pronounced Omeesh) and on the nearby Cetine River. As I mentioned, Dave and I bought an excursion that consisted of a river cruise and lunch in the forest, followed by a city highlights tour in Split. Dave didn't feel well enough to go, so I went on my own, along with about 20 other people from our ship.

We took a bus down the coastal road to Omis and were given a short time to wander the tiny town. Tommy is one of the main supermarket chains in Croatia, from what I can tell. I was seeing them all over the place.

Here's our trusty river boat, the Marco Polo.

And this is the scenery along the river. The Cetine River flows through a deep canyon with steep limestone walls, with little ramshackle fishing shacks along the banks. I have no idea what that round building is on the hilltop. Some kind of old fortification, maybe.

Rock-climbing is a popular activity in the canyon, as is ziplining. (I did neither, not that I was offered the option.) Can you see the rock-climber in the picture above? He did have ropes, at least.

The river seemed very clean and the water clear. I saw lots of ducks.

We chugged upstream for a while and eventually stopped at a sort of outdoor beer garden, where we disembarked and were given wine (at 11 a.m.!) and a plate of locally produced meat, cheese and olives with bread.

Then we piled back onto our bus (which had wound down the canyon road to the beer garden to retrieve us), and headed back to Split.

The main sight in Split is Diocletian's Palace, which was built by the Roman emperor around 300 A.D. Diocletian ruled the Eastern portion of the empire from here. (Apparently he was from this part of the world, so he was returning to his roots.)

We traipsed around the palace and got an overly long explanation of Diocletian's reign and temperament from our tour guide, who loved using the phrase "as such" to conclude many of her sentences. It's just as well Dave wasn't there because that little verbal tic would have driven him crazy. As you can see above, tourists can pose with costumed Roman soldiers in one of the palace's courtyards.

Just as our tour ended, the skies opened and we got a deluge of rain, along with thunder and lightning. I ducked into a nearby coffee shop with the curious name "@Noon" and got an Americano. A Canadian woman asked to sit at my table and we chatted about our travels -- she was here for an electronic music festival. She tipped me off to something called the "vestibule," a part of the palace I hadn't seen with an oculus, or round opening, in the ceiling -- so I went back and found that after the rain let up.

Then I wandered through town for a while, taking pictures, before heading back to the ship.

I told Dave about the day and he said, "It sounds like I didn't miss much." I must not be a very compelling travel narrator!

I was very amused to stumble across the Cafe Bar Monty Python. I wonder if anyone goes in there and tries to do the dead parrot routine?

Here's a little video showing the beer garden where our tour group ate, along with some musicians who entertained us there, a quiet view of the river and a video of the vestibule in Diocletian's Palace.

Today we're in Dubrovnik and as I write it's gray and rainy. I'm not sure what we're going to get to see, but as long as I have some rain protection I'm going to get out and about. Dave feels better today so he may join me as well. At least we won't need sunblock!

Anchors Aweigh!

Here's our home for the next ten days or so -- the Celebrity Constellation, at the port of Ravenna where we boarded her yesterday. We took an early bus from Lake Garda with the others who bought our tour package, mostly British, and now we're all just tiny lettuce leaves mixed into the huge tossed salad of nationalities on the ship. Many of the passengers seem to be Americans, at least based on accents. No MAGA hats so far.

We have a balcony room on deck nine, which is pretty high up. We're just beneath the front of the big black funnel on the top of the ship, with the big X on the side. (Apparently that's the symbol of Celebrity Cruises, and one wonders how Elon Musk feels about that.) The deck that looks like a black line is the solid wall of windows in the Ocean View Cafe, the ship's biggest buffet restaurant, which is where I am now. Our "stateroom" is one floor below that. ("'Stateroom' sounds so 'Love Boat,'" Dave said yesterday.)

We were all settled in our quarters by early afternoon, looking over a beach adjacent to the port. There were windsurfers and people parasailing, and this...

...which I believe is technically known as a "big fishing thing."

This is the shipboard martini bar, where I am going to do my best to not spend all my free time, but we did settle in there yesterday for a drink before dinner. Those two women on the barstools talked about how many times before they'd been to Italy, and on how many other cruises. They reminded me of my stepmother, who was always on one cruise or another. It's a way of life for some people, though I can't imagine doing it regularly.

We went for dinner at the Tuscan Grill, a specialty restaurant which I suppose was somewhat Tuscan, and while we were there the ship finally got underway. One minute I looked out the window and saw the concrete pier where we were docked, and the next, the pier was gone and we were moving. It was all very subtle. The ship is so big I couldn't even feel the change.

We had an after-dinner dink in the Sunset Bar at the back of the ship ("aft," as the old salts would say).

And this morning we're off the coast of Croatia, where we begin our adventures.

Unfortunately Dave's Crohn's disease has been acting up, which is why he's been hanging back on some of the trip activities so far. He said he may not go ashore today, but has urged me to go on my own (we have a purchased excursion planned). So we'll see what happens with that.

Two minor criticisms so far: The coffee in the Ocean View Cafe is terrible. It tastes like burned rubber. I might switch to tea for this trip! And I could do without the overloud piped-in modern pop music by whiny, shouty singers.

But the view is pretty darn spectacular.

Heller Garden and Sirmione

Yesterday was our only full day in Lake Garda, and I don't see how I could have done any more than I did. I crammed that day full.

Dave and I started by going to the Heller Garden, a botanical and sculpture garden near our hotel. It was originally planted beginning in 1903 by Arthur Hruska, a dentist and surgeon. After Hruska's death in 1971, it went into a decline until it was eventually purchased by Austrian artist André Heller, who filled it with contemporary sculpture. It's a tranquil space and Dave and I enjoyed walking around the hilly grounds and spotting all the plants we have in our own garden -- and some we'd like to have.

That's artist Niki De Saint Phalle's "Adam and Eve" above. Heller invited artists from all over the globe to spend time in his garden, including Lou Reed, who spent his 60th birthday there, according to the website. (I connected to that story, not only because I'm also named Reed but because I turn 60 this year!)

I even bought a t-shirt bearing art that Keith Haring created for the garden in 1990.

Even just walking around town here, the plants are pretty impressive -- especially the bougainvillea, which is exploding with color at this time of the year. After leaving the garden, Dave and I had lunch in a waterfront pizza place not far from this towering display.

After lunch, Dave went back to the room to rest. I bought a ticket to go to Sirmione, another town on the lake, by boat. Apparently Sirmione is the place to see on Lake Garda -- blogger Sharon mentioned in the comments that she's been there -- and I didn't want to pass it up. I wouldn't have much time there, so I had to make every minute count.

As the boat pulled up to the wharf in Sirmione, I got a good view of the castle, built in the late 1300s.

I also got a good view of our hunky boat attendant's optimistic tattoo.

I walked past the castle (but didn't go in) and around the perimeter of the peninsula, up to the Grottoes of Catullus, the ruins of a Roman villa. Along the way I passed this eye-catching sculpture on a beach, by a group called Cracking Art that makes sculpture from recycled plastics.

Remember that blue dog (some of you thought it might be a cat) that I saw on the balcony in Stresa? It's a Cracking Art piece, too.

Here are some of the ruins. There was a lot of up-and-down climbing and stairs to get to them, but it was worthwhile. They're connected to Catullus by legend -- in one of his poems he "describes his return to his beloved house in Sirmione," according to Wikipedia.

As I mentioned yesterday the ruins are featured in the movie "Call Me By Your Name"; scenes were filmed there and on the beach below.

And here's the beach, known as Giamaica (Jamaica) Beach. In the movie, Elio accompanies his father and Oliver on an archaeological visit here, while a Roman statue is being recovered from the lake. When they visit the beach it's practically empty, but as you can see that was not the case yesterday!

And then I had to hot-foot it to the pier to catch the boat back to Gardone. I had a little more than an hour in Sirmione, all told, but it was enough to enjoy the colorful narrow streets and see the main features. By the time I got back to our hotel, cleaned up and collected Dave, it was dinnertime and I was craving an Aperol spritz. We ate at a little restaurant on the water and then came back to our room and watched, of course, "Call Me By Your Name."

Today we're off to Ravenna to board our cruise ship. In fact we're supposed to leave quite early, just after 7 a.m., so I gotta get packing. Coming to you tomorrow from somewhere on the Adriatic Sea!

A Bear, a Lion and a Poet

The first thing I noticed when we approached Lake Garda, in Lombardy, was the sound of cicadas. They buzz and chirr so loudly in the trees at this time of year that I could hear them through the closed windows of our van. I immediately thought of the movie "Call Me By Your Name," which features cicadas in some scenes, and in fact that achingly beautiful film -- one of my favorites -- was made in this region. A few scenes were even shot right on Lake Garda.

The ride here was smooth enough. We left Stresa with six fellow passengers and a driver at 11:15 a.m. and arrived about two and a half hours later. We traveled mostly on modern superhighways and through tunnels, tunnels and more tunnels. There were tunnels that branched, tunnels that merged, tunnels with windows onto spreading valleys, tunnels that ended only to begin again almost immediately. I wouldn't have minded the tunnels except I was trying to read a New Yorker and we didn't have light in the van, so every time we entered a tunnel I had to stop reading until we emerged into daylight again. It made for a choppy reading experience.

We got to our hotel in the community of Gardone Riviera and checked in -- that's the view from our room, above -- and then Dave settled in for a nap while I went out for a walk and to find lunch.

Gardone Riviera doesn't seem to be as centralized as Stresa, but there is a little commercial street right around the corner from our hotel, so that's where I went. (The hotel above isn't ours, but it's nearby and seems to be under renovation.)

I stopped in a cafe on a lakeside square and had a beer and an unexpectedly large sandwich called a mortazza, with mortadella, grilled zucchini and mayonnaise. That's fine, because I was starving.

I sat wondering why there's a gigantic statue of a bear in the square. Are bears a common element of local wildlife?

And then I came across this lion (I think?) near the ferry dock on the lakeshore. Googling just now, I've concluded both animals are the work of sculptor Davide Rivalta. Do they live here permanently, or are they just passing through? Not sure.

I walked a short distance into the hills above the town, and ascended a street appropriately called the Via Disciplina, which definitely required discipline to climb. I tried to go to the botanical garden, but they only accept cash for admission and I didn't have any, so maybe Dave and I will head back there today. The cicadas were out in force!

The bronze figure seated on a bench at the end of that video is located on the lakeshore just below our hotel. It's a sculpture by Alessandro Verdi called "The Lonely Scholar" (Il Solitario Studioso) and depicts poet and writer Gabriele D'Annunzio, who lived in Gardone Riviera.

Last night we had dinner in the poolside restaurant at our hotel, and then came up to the room and watched the Bond movie "Goldfinger." I read a New Yorker article on the way here about the renewed popularity of gold prospecting in the western USA, and it mentioned "Goldfinger," which made me realize I hadn't seen it in ages. It was entertaining and didn't require any emotional or intellectual investment -- perfect vacation viewing!

Swallows and an Island Cruise

I'm writing this post without my glasses, because I'm already sitting in our hotel's breakfast room and I left my glasses upstairs. So if it's full of typos I apologize! I'll come back and clean it up when I can see again!

Yesterday was very busy. I took a long walk around Stresa after breakfast, both up and down the lake, to take in all the sights. That's one scene from my walk, above. Here are some more:

I was astonished to  come across this old, wrecked villa, commanding a scenic position overlooking the lake. It's surrounded by multimillion-Euro properties. How does it happen that a place like this is just left to deteriorate? Is it caught up in a family dispute, a contested will, a legal limbo?

I watched swallows swooping through the sky above the hilly neighborhood, just as they do in town, shrieking loudly among the "cliffs" of buildings. They are omnipresent here, along with sparrows and pigeons.

I walked a long time -- a couple of hours, I think -- and then stopped for a coffee before heading back to the room to find Dave. The well-rested Dave was ready for an adventure by this time, so we set out right away to take a boat ride to the Borromean Islands, a group of three islands in the middle of the lake. They're mostly owned by the aristocratic Borromeo family, related to medieval Milanese cardinal St. Charles Borromeo, whose memorial fountain I came across in Vienna just a few months ago.

There are three main islands, Isola Madre, Isola de Pescatori and Isola Bella. We didn't go to Madre, and spent most of our time wandering the narrow streets and waterfront of Pescatori, which is apparently the only permanently inhabited island of the three (according to Wikipedia, which is never wrong).

Here's a video showing the swallows flying overhead on my morning walk, followed by our boat excursion on the lake:

You even get some rare footage of me and Dave!

We watched people swimming in the lake off this sunny promontory on Pescatori. I was frankly jealous, because it was hot!

The streets are so narrow a person could almost reach out from one window to touch the building across the way, Lots of interesting angles and shadows!

Isola Bella is largely occupied by a palace and formal terraced garden, which we can actually see from our hotel balcony (see yesterday's top photo). We didn't visit them because by the time we figured out how to enter the garden we were hot and tired, so we just caught the boat back. I'm sure they're spectacular but you can't see everything, right? Instead we wandered the steep, narrow streets and saw sights like someone's collection of vintage outboard motors (above).

When we got back to Stresa Dave retreated to the air conditioning and, inspired by the swimmers on Isola de Pescatori, I put on my bathing suit and went for a dip in the lake. There's a public beach right across from our hotel. I waded in and found the bottom unpleasantly rocky -- the pebbles were smooth but still painful to walk on. I  almost gave up, but I saw that everyone else was barefoot so I decided to try a different spot along the beach, and sure enough it was much sandier. I had a good swim, which felt amazing. (And then I took a second brief dip in our hotel pool.)

We had pasta last night in the main square, listening once again to the shrieking swallows. Off today to Lake Garda!