Monday, July 13, 2026
King's Landing
I'm getting a late start on the ol' blog this morning. I woke up at 3 a.m. or so, and lay there for a while before turning over and falling asleep again -- and the next thing I knew it was 7 a.m.! These staterooms are great for sleeping. We have a comfortable bed and blackout curtains, and though I don't register the movement of the ship I wouldn't doubt that one some cellular level I'm being lulled by the thrum of the engines.
We were in Dubrovnik yesterday, which, as we were continually reminded by our tour guide and by t-shirts and other tourist paraphernalia, is the filming location for the TV show "Game of Thrones." It fills in for King's Landing, the capital city in that mythical show. I've only ever seen the first season of "Game of Thrones" and I wasn't a huge fan, so this doesn't mean a whole lot to me, but it has become a driver of regional tourism.
I guess the production crew must use CGI to erase all the modern landscape features, like fiberglass boats.
Anyway, it was a beautiful little city, but positively packed with tourists. I knew even before getting here that it's considered one of the most over-touristed locations on the planet, because the old city itself is tiny, and when cruise ships come and dump thousands of people into its streets it becomes a seething mass of humanity. But we managed.
We wandered the ancient streets with our guide, hearing about the city's past and its massive fortified walls, which kept out the Venetians and the Ottomans and the Serbians and the Montenegrins and various other invaders over the centuries. (They didn't successfully keep out Napoleon or the Hapsburgs.) It was heavily damaged in the Yugoslavian civil war in the 1990s, but has been restored since.
Visitors can take stairs up to the top of the walls and walk along the battlements, but it costs 40 Euros, which I thought was excessive! I skipped that option.
Then Dave and I settled into a cafe, where our coffee came in these fun cups. We had some avocado toast and then I went wandering a bit more to take photos.
We were supposed to go up in a cable car, but there was initially some doubt whether that would happen. We had quite a bit of rain in the morning, followed by high winds, and when we first got into town the cable car was closed. But we got word from the guide just before our free time that it had reopened, thank goodness.
Here's our guide, Darko -- "like the scary American movie," he said. (He means "Donnie Darko," in case you haven't seen it. It's very good.) He befriended this crow on previous visits and as we walked up to the cable car, it landed on his hand, begging for treats. (It didn't eat the poisonous oleander flowers, don't worry.)
Here's the view to the south from the cable car terminal on the mountaintop above Dubrovnik. The mountains in the near distance are in Bosnia, and farther away in Montenegro.
And here's a video that will show you the descent from the cable car terminal, with views over the city. (And an opening clip showing the main square in Dubrovnik. All the bleachers and plywood are for the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, featuring outdoor theater, music and dance performances.)
We were supposed to go ashore in Montenegro today, but apparently those plans have changed because of weather -- something about the tenders to shore not being able to operate safely. From my seat by the window it looks fine out there, bright and sunny, but I guess it must be very windy. Fortunately Dave and I didn't buy an excursion today so we're not missing anything pre-planned. We were just going to go into town and hang out, which we can do on the ship!
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Love the video, thank you, amazing views.
ReplyDelete"Donnie Darko" had me searching my dvd shelves because I thought "I've got that" and don't remember it at all, but of course I don't have it, what I have is "Donnie Brassco" with Al Pacino.
Ha! Yeah, "Donnie Brasco" is a very different movie. :)
DeleteThanks for the cable car trip... sounded like a lot of people in there with you!
ReplyDeleteThe cars were pretty large, and it accommodated our whole group. I didn't count how many there were! Maybe 20?
DeleteWow 40 Euros to walk the walls is ridiculous. Cable car looks fab - hope that was a bit cheaper.
ReplyDeleteDoesn't that seem crazy? I'd have paid 20, but not 40.
DeleteDubrovnik may have successfully repelled the Venetians, the Ottomans, the Serbians, the Montenegrins and various other invaders but it has been powerless when it comes to driving off enormous cruise ships packed with gum-chewing rich Americans "doing Europe". I once saw Dubrovnik from the coastal road when travelling north from the airport but that is as close as I got.
ReplyDeleteThere are lots of gum-chewing rich Brits on this boat too, I'll have you know. Even some from Yorkshire!
DeleteYou used "Brits" and that has been recorded in my black book.
DeleteI cannot remember the show I watched, but they toured Dubrovnik and I was amazed by the walls and how old the city is, and how touristy.
ReplyDeleteI never knew that Croatia could have a big tourism business!
Apparently it's a huge segment of Croatia's economy. As Darko told us, the manufacturing sector has been decimated, so the jobs are in tourism these days. (As in many places, it's a service economy.)
DeleteSounds like a cruise we would enjoy,
ReplyDeleteCelebrity is doing a great job so far. No complaints!
DeleteFun day! I love cable cars - kind of a slow motion roller coaster effect for me. Mike & I really enjoyed our Celebrity cruise for our 25th anniversary - it's hard to believe that was in 2015!! We are old. Ha!
ReplyDeleteYeah, it's kind of a thrill ride even though it's not very fast! My last cruise was ten years ago, too -- hard to believe.
DeleteYou are sure seeing a lot of places!
ReplyDeleteA different city every day, pretty much!
DeleteI guess tourism keeps Croatia alive these days, particularly the ports. 40 Euros seems a lot, but maybe it's needed to pay for the upkeep and repair of the fabric of the battlements.
ReplyDeleteYeah, I'm sure the revenue helps to maintain the structures.
DeleteIt's a very different landscape which makes it very interesting to see.
ReplyDeleteIt is very interesting -- much hillier and rockier than I expected, and not very beachy.
DeleteWhat an interesting and ancient city. The crowds of people are a bit overwhelming. I loved the view coming down on the cable car. I could really see the wall around the city.
ReplyDeleteI didn't feel overwhelmed by the crowds when I was there, but maybe because I knew my time there was limited. Staying there overnight would probably be an entirely different experience because I bet a lot of those tourists vanish back to their ships in the afternoon.
DeleteIt's amazing how a war zone can become a tourist destination again. Particularly after the terrible conflict in and around Croatia. But it's good.
ReplyDeleteI know, it's weird to think about, isn't it? That war was not that long ago!
DeleteTourists can support an economy and ruin a location, can't they? As with Cozumel and its cruise ships I wonder what the end result for the environment is going to be.
ReplyDeleteNot pretty, which is ironic because the beauty of such places is what brings in the tourists. I am guilty of being one of them.
I feel quite conflicted about the impact of cruising, both on the climate and on local environments. Some cities are actually fighting back against overtourism, and I can see why. Darko said only about 800 people actually live in the old town of Dubrovnik -- otherwise it's all given over to temporary accommodation and tourist businesses.
DeleteTourists are definitely a mixed bag for many of those scenic and popular spots. I'm sure I'll experience that on my trip to Ireland although I doubt there are cruise ships docking there. I could be completely wrong on that! It looks like a beautiful and historical place. I would be more about having a coffee and pastry than being in a sea of humanity. :)
ReplyDeleteYeah, I think Ireland will be an authentic experience, though some parts of Dublin are pretty touristy. (I haven't been anywhere else in Ireland.)
DeleteIt's really gorgeous but I'm sure the tourists get a little over the top. You have some fantastic views here.
ReplyDeleteThe crowds didn't bother me too much but I can see how it would be hard to live there! Though once you get out of the old town I think the city is much more authentically Croatian.
DeleteI don't know which is better.... the happy coffee cup or Darko's crow! 🐦⬛
ReplyDeleteThe crow was really funny. It kept nibbling on his ear!
DeleteDeus caritas est!
ReplyDelete👍
DeleteThe cable car looks incredibly steep, and what a magnificent view.
ReplyDeleteIt was very steep. I can't imagine having to climb up that mountain without it!
DeleteAnother lovely day! The cable car provided great views.
ReplyDeleteIt was beautiful up there, and a little cooler than down on the coast.
DeleteIf I had something to say in Dubrovnik, I would charge tourists even more to just enter the ancient part of the city. As you say, they are overrun by tourists, so let them at least have the benefit of the income - I shudder to think of what they have to clean up every night when the tourists go back to their huge cruise ships or retreat into their hotels.
ReplyDeleteIt looks a beautiful place to explore, and I am glad you got the chance to go on the cable car after all. I've never watched Game of Thrones but I know it's immensely popular, so I am not surprised the tourist and souvenirs industry are heavily picking up on that.
Apparently Barcelona is a leading example of a community resisting overtourism -- perhaps it will develop successful models for better managing the situation.
DeleteGreat video. Beautiful place. Too bad about the crowds. I’m grateful you saw this for me! Having traveled on huge cruise ships, for work, I always found I slept best out at sea, even though I wasn’t necessarily aware of the motion while in my cabin.
ReplyDeleteI'm not aware of motion at all when I'm lying in bed. The seas have felt very placid so far!
Delete