Tuesday, July 14, 2026

No Kotor


As I mentioned at the end of yesterday's post, our plans changed and we spent the day at sea. We were supposed to go to Kotor, Montenegro, but someone -- I don't know whether it was our captain or the port officers in Kotor -- determined that it wouldn't be safe because of weather conditions. Dave and I were skeptical of this explanation because the weather report called for sunshine and maximum winds of 13 kph. Not exactly hurricane strength.

But I did some reading later and apparently Kotor can be a tricky port. It requires tenders (small shuttle boats) from the ship to land, and they have to zip through a relatively narrow channel to get to town. Apparently the area is prone to katabatic winds similar to the Santa Ana winds in California, and indeed there was a wind advisory in Dubrovnik, where we had been just the day before. Who knows what was going on. Gotta trust the captain.

That (above) was our view for much of the day, as we lounged around and read in our cabin. Still not too shabby! Of course there are also plenty of public places to go on the ship -- bars and restaurants and lounges. In late morning I went to the fitness center and spent about 40 minutes walking and running on a treadmill. I haven't run on a treadmill in probably 15 years, and I pushed myself pretty hard, but it felt good. I'm thinking about joining a gym again and this was a good reminder what that feels like.

It's hard to know where we are at any given moment, because there's just open water out there, sometimes with a faint line of a land form on the horizon. But then I found an online cruise ship monitoring site that gives our location. Yesterday we slowly made our way down the midpoint between the Albanian coast and Italy. At one point my phone pinged a cell tower in Greece, which I know because I got a "welcome to Greece!" message from my phone carrier. Now, as I look out at the water, I can see the tip of Italy's boot heel in the distance.

Sunset off Dubrovnik, Sunday night

I'm trying not to think too much about the carbon impact of this trip. As I understand it, cruise ships are tremendous consumers of fuel and generators of waste, so I'm aware we're not doing the planet any favors. Sometimes within the context of marital compromise you have to set aside personal qualms, you know? This is the world we live in.

And cruising is very pleasant. I understand why people like these sorts of trips. The ship is so comfortable, and we have anything we could want within easy reach. If I crave a kiwi fruit, it's there. If we need entertainment, there are games and puzzles and quizzes and any number of shows and that kind of thing. Fortunately, as we all know, I can pretty much entertain myself, though I was tempted -- lubricated by a martini -- to participate in the onboard archery competition last night. What could go wrong?

(Seriously, the arrows were tipped with rubber suction cups. Nothing could go wrong. But Dave was hungry so we proceeded to dinner instead.)

I'm even on track to burn through my backlog of New Yorkers!

Last night, being a glutton for punishment, I watched a new documentary on Netflix about the Costa Concordia disaster in 2012. Watching it while actually on a cruise ship may seem foolhardy, but it was really good and very dramatic. Dave fell asleep.

We're at sea again today before docking in Messina, in Sicily, tomorrow. I plan to spend some more time in the fitness center!

54 comments:

  1. Hi Steve. Watch The Balkans, Europe's Forgotten Frontier, on BBC iplayer when you get home. You will enjoy it.all the more for having visited. Rachel

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    1. Thanks for the recommendation! I will check it out!

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  2. Glad you are getting a guilty conscience about your carbon impact but it does look a lovely trip lounging around doing nowt ;)

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    1. Well, it's good to be aware, though feeling guilty about it doesn't do me much good, I suppose.

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  3. I may have seen the same doco about the Costa Concordia, and it was good. From memory, the entrance to the harbour when the cruise ships anchor is quite narrow with steep cliffs either side. It is a pity you didn't get to see the city and the country.

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    1. We have a friend who has gone to Montenegro several times, and he's made it sound pretty great, so we might go back. Who knows?

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  4. A life on the ocean wave!
    A home on the rolling deep!
    Where the scatter'd waters rave, and the winds their revels keep;
    Like an eagle cag'd I pine,
    On this dull, unchanging shore;
    Oh give me the flashing brine,
    The spray and the tempest's roar.
    P.S. "Sunset off Dubrovnik, Sunday night" is a fantastic photograph.

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    1. I had to Google that poem -- not one I know!

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  5. That sunset picture is a keeper

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  6. I have a friend who goes on cruises a lot and has tried to get me to join, but it just doesn't seem like my thing. I'd rather go somewhere and spend a few days there than spend time at sea.
    I am THAT person.

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    1. I'm sort of that person too -- but I think the key to cruising is seeing the voyage as the trip itself. You're not so much visiting destinations as you are spending time on a luxurious vessel. Know what I mean?

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  7. Replies
    1. I don't think I've ever had two sea days in a row.

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  8. That sounds like a lovely day at sea. I find being on the water to be so calming - I actually didn't ever really want to get off the boat (although I really enjoyed our excursions too). I think that's just who I am as a person - inertia wins the day unless someone drags me forward. Ha!

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    1. There's nothing wrong with a little inertia now and then, but after a while I get squirrelly.

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  9. Well, at least you didn't watch The Poseidon Adventure again! Pity about Montenegro but you'd hate to turn it into your own version of toughing it out with the real life equivalents of Shelley Winters and Gene Hackman! And you're right -- it looks none too shabby there!

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    1. Ha! Yeah, better safe than sorry, for sure. :)

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    1. Thanks! It was a lovely sunset. All I did is click the button on my phone. :)

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  11. As you may know, I am a connoisseur of sunset photos. That's a good one. Wish I could have been there to experience it.
    Just relax and enjoy this trip. That ship would be sailing whether you were on it or not.

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    1. Yeah, I know, but I can't help being somewhat conscious of my role!

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  12. I leave for a few days of vacation and when I return, you are STILL on vacation. Glad to hear it is going great even if not perfectly as scheduled. I have no doubt that cruise ships have everything a person can want but I still can't bring myself to be in close proximity to that many people for that long. Part of my rural America upbring no doubt.

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    1. OK, but you were in the Philippines for a MONTH! I guess that wasn't quite a vacation, though, was it? The funny thing is, the boat doesn't seem crowded at all, except at certain times in the main buffet restaurant. We're all pretty spread out.

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  13. Man, I think I would be sitting out on your little balcony, enjoying the sea breezes!
    I prefer the mountains [Colorado] as opposed to the oceans [California], but I think I would enjoy a cruise ... 🤷‍♀️ So, I'm enjoying yours!

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    1. Glad you're enjoying it! I've always been a water person. Given a choice, I'd live on the ocean rather than in the mountains.

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  14. You describe very well why cruises are so popular.

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  15. That's interesting about the winds in that port. The captain made a wise move I think. I wonder how often that happens. Your cabin looks great. Maybe my hatred of cruising stems from the fact that I had an inside cabin with no windows.
    I hope you are enjoying the day!

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    1. I remember my stepmother describing similar situations on some of her cruises, so I don't think it's an uncommon situation -- particularly when tenders are involved. I could never have a cabin with no window. I need to see daylight.

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  16. Being at sea with all the accommodations is amazing. The views from your cabin and balcony are great. It all looks very relaxing.
    The gym experience was good too. Feeling great after the workout makes it all worth the effort. Have you and Dave tried the spa? The cruise ship spa is most likely a luxury experience.

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    1. We haven't done the spa. Dave is trying to get me to have a massage but I haven't done it yet!

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  17. That's good you're not feeling much movement. Our boat had sails, and stabilizers that stopped the roll in the wind. We definitely felt that. It did a number on my inner ear, I was rocking on dry land for about a week. It's called Mal de Barq (spelling approximate.)

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    1. I remember having that sensation after being on the overnight train to Cornwall. But the cruise ship is just too big. I feel no different on land.

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  18. Your post reminded me of when I did a Greek vacation (with students). Part of the trip was a cruise around the islands and I remember one island where we had to get in little boats and go to the shore. It wasn't scary or anything, but I remember thinking if it was really windy or wavy it would have given me pause to get off the ship and onto that little boat!

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    1. And you had to be responsible for kids, which no doubt added pressure to the situation!

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  19. Messina is not your typical picturesque Sicilian town, rebuilt after an earthquake but I hope you get to see the astronomical clock tower.
    My in-laws loved going on cruises, complete with captain's dinner and a fancy dress competition. My mother-in-law had a couple of costumes incl Statue of Liberty and she won several times.

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    1. I'm back from Messina as I write this, and although a lot of the city is rebuilt we found it quite picturesque in places. Well worth a visit! (And yes, we saw the clock.)

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  20. Oh sure, pull out the "marital compromise" card to explain away your carbon footprint! It does look like a wonderful cruise. I'm enjoying the photos and narrative of places I'll never get to in person.

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    1. Ha! Yeah, it is a convenient (and not very fair) way to blame someone else, I suppose.

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  21. You're making the best of the situation and going with the flow, literally and figuratively. I would love to explore that ship but not sure I'd want to be on it. I'm still leery of seasickness...and norovirus! Maybe one day I'll get over my fears.

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    1. I don't usually have problems with seasickness even when I feel the motion of the ship, and so far on this trip I haven't felt much of anything. It's pretty smooth out there! Norovirus, on the other hand, is a legitimate concern.

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  22. I could really enjoy those views! Archery?? That surprised me! (I actually have a compound bow, though I've not used it in years)

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    1. I was surprised too! I was very curious to see how it would work!

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  23. I really wanted to be in Sicily right now. My oldest friend lives there and her niece, whom I’ve know her entire 54 years, is visiting. Say hi for me.

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  24. One of the great things about cruises like this one is that you go to places that would be hard to get to if you were to drive to them. I used the fitness center a lot on the one Med cruise we did. Cheers guys!

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    1. Yeah, these countries are quite mountainous, so driving around isn't that easy!

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  25. That sunset is what probably everyone dreams of when they plan a cruise. I know I would (although I would not plan a cruise anyway, for various reasons).
    Better be safe than sorry; as you said, trust the captain.

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    1. Yeah, it's impossible to know all the variables that go into making these decisions, so I just have to believe he knows what he's doing!

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  26. I have a lot of catching up to do, but I know now where you are. You seem to be all right even if it wasn't your heart's desire. I hope it continues to go well.

    Love,
    Janie

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    1. Oh, I am enjoying it. I don't mean to put it down. It's just not something I would have chosen on my own!

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