Thursday, July 13, 2023

Greenland Pier to Greenwich


Having determined that I need to be more vigilant about exercising, I decided to walk another section of the Thames Path yesterday. I began where I stopped in late June, at Greenland Pier near Surrey Quays, and walked the riverfront about 3 miles past Greenwich.

The mural above, featuring wild birds of all sorts, was in Surrey Quays on the way to the starting point.


The path followed the river for a while. I watched some guys in a boat out on the water doing something involving hoisting a huge tank on a chain. They were wearing high-viz vests and blasting the Arctic Monkeys song "Fluorescent Adolescent," which I could hear clearly from shore. (Side note: The video for that song is the craziest thing I have ever seen.)

The path briefly cut inland at Deptford, where it crossed through several parks, including one named for Samuel Pepys who apparently lived there. I checked out the butterfly and wildlife garden, but didn't see much activity.

The path also passed a shuttered old pub, the Princess of Wales, which appears to be flats now. The building is for sale, if you're interested.


In Sayes Court Park, another green space, there's a fenced-off old mulberry tree that was allegedly planted by Russian Czar Peter the Great in 1698. Peter apparently visited London and stayed on the property, then the home of John Evelyn, a "great writer and herbalist" (according to my walking map). In fact, Evelyn complained that Peter and his entourage trashed the house, like a bunch of '70s rockers in a hotel room.

The fact that Peter wrecked the house makes it unlikely, in my mind, that he also planted a tree, but who am I to say?


There's also an elaborate monument to Peter the Great on the riverfront in Deptford. Apparently Vladimir Putin himself visited it back in 2003, three years after it was erected. A year ago some unidentified metal thieves attacked it with an angle grinder and damaged it, which is why half of it is now encased in green plywood. (The part beneath the wood is a figure of a court dwarf, which seems like it might be problematic from a sensitivity standpoint anyway.)


Here's the backside, so you can see what I mean.


From there, the path continued past lots of large apartment blocks to the Greenwich waterfront, with views of Canary Wharf across the river.

In Greenwich I diverged from the route so I could check out some antique shops, including the self-proclaimed junk shop where I bought a bunch of old photographic slides last fall. There were no more slides but I did spend quite a bit of time looking through a box of old (and not-so-old) photographs, including some that appeared to depict the same people who were in some of those slides. I bet I looked at 500 pictures, but I only bought a few -- most of them were boring, nondescript shots of blurry beaches, blurry hills, blurry castles.


Then it was back to the Thames, where I passed the flag-draped Trafalgar Tavern, which I'd photographed from the other side of the river in January.


I concluded my walk at the riverfront in Greenwich near this big dead heart. I'm hoping to keep walking more, so I'll be back on the trail continuing eastward soon enough!

24 comments:

sparklingmerlot said...

Maybe he didn't actually plant the tree. Maybe he spat out a mulberry seed in defiance after his debauched shenanigans in Mr Evelyn's house.

Yorkshire Pudding said...

Well done sir! A good long walk in good weather.
"... but who am I to say?" - You are Stephen G. Reed - the famous school librarian AND gardener!

Andrew said...

It's a very nice mural.
The old pub is a handsome looking building.
I assume Trafalgar Tavern was decorated thus for the coronation.
You always find interesting things on streets where you walk.

Moving with Mitchell said...

I love this! Would love to be enjoying it.

Boud said...

I doubt if pepys and the czar would have hit it off! Peter sounds like a soccer hooligan. Big dead heart would be a great band name.

The Bug said...

What a lovely walk! Too bad about the dead heart - I'd like to have seen it alive.

Bob said...

Nice views for a walk.
Maybe Peter planted the tree as payment for his rudeness?
I love the three birds all in a row.

Linda Sue said...

that statue has micro cephalic influence. What a good walk, thank you for doing it for us! Fabulous pigeon photo of importance! Canary wharf seems so sterile and upright and un-charming. I should go there next time to see If I am correct in this assumption. Good weather for walking!

Ellen D. said...

You always give us a nice tour when you take your walks so, yes, walk more!

NewRobin13 said...

That was a nice long walk. I love seeing what you see there. That big dead heart is so interesting. I wish it would come back to life.

37paddington said...

Lovely walking with you this morning!

Red said...

The trail goes through some interesting areas. It takes someone to learn about things...Peter the great... and then tell us about it.

Michael said...

You sure do have some great walking spots living in London. I am looking forward to some cooler weather as it is very hot here in central VA now, so if I don't go in the early morning, it is just too hot. I did go yesterday in the middle of the day, and it wasn't a wise move as I got a bit dehydrated.

Sharon said...

I'm surprised to see a statue honoring Peter the Great. That seems very out of place to me.
The Trafalgar Tavern looks like a very popular spot. I'm guessing that's Nelson standing at the end of the pub's patio.

Allison said...

Interesting things to see, as always. That was a good walk.

Margaret said...

Great walk with interesting sites along the way! Do you keep track of how far you go or how your heartrate reacts? I wear a FitBit, that's why I'm asking.

Ed said...

I've never heard of the group or the song, nor had I ever seen the video. But I did enjoy the video. It makes me wonder who the other group was that were fighting the clowns and what was the beef between the groups.

The Padre said...

Way Flipping Cool There Brother Stave

Cheers

Catalyst said...

Wonderful tour. I wonder which Princess of Wales that was. And why is the Trafalgar Tavern so flag-draped? Still celebrating King Charlie?

Kelly said...

I love that waterfront view with the pigeons!

Debby said...

That big dead heart could be a symbol of these days.

Steve Reed said...

Caro: That sounds more like it!

YP: Yeah, that doesn't get me very far!

Andrew: I don't know about the Trafalgar. I think it might be like that all the time.

Mitchell: You will be up and taking long walks very soon!

Boud: "Big Dead Heart" WOULD be a great band name!

Bug: I feel like I've seen pictures of it alive. I wonder what killed it?

Bob: Peter doesn't strike me as the type who believed he needed to pay for anything!

Linda Sue: I actually don't mind Canary Wharf, but it IS very modern. Yeah, the proportions on that statue are all out of whack!

Ellen D: I will, don't worry!

Robin: I think it's past that, unfortunately. :) But ivy grows so fast I'm sure if someone replanted it, they could grow a new one in no time.

37P: Glad you enjoyed it! :)

Red: It's weird that there's a whole Peter the Great connection in London I'd never heard about!

Michael: I remember that from my years in Florida -- needing to walk early!

Sharon: Yes! That is indeed Nelson.

Allison: Lots of interesting stuff out there!

Margaret: I don't wear a FitBit so I have no idea about my heart, but I plotted out the distance on Google Maps when I got home so I have a rough idea of the mileage.

Ed: I know! The conflict was never adequately explained, was it? LOL

Padre: Too cool for school!

Catalyst: I don't know. Some pubs have flags up all the time. Just colorful, I guess! But yeah, it may have started with the coronation.

Kelly: The pigeons didn't love it. They took off right after I snapped the picture.

Debby: It does feel like that sometimes!

Ms. Moon said...

Good for you, Steve! What interesting places you have to walk.

Jeanie said...

The Trafalgar pub looks festive! Maybe Peter's People planted the tree. Doesn't sound like his kind of thing to do on his own! I think I'd like to visit Greenwich.