Thursday, August 10, 2023

Thamesmead to Erith


Finally! A day of sunshine! And I think we're going to get more today and tomorrow. After our recent dampness and gloom I feel blessed.

I set out yesterday to walk another segment of the Thames Path. I really want to finish it this summer before school begins, and I had only nine miles left -- I've walked that far before so it was certainly doable. But I wound up walking just five. I figure I'll go back on Friday and do the rest. No need to kill myself.

I started out in Thamesmead, after taking two trains and a bus to get there.


This little bee joined me early in my journey. The poor thing was so covered in pollen it was a bit punch-drunk, I think. I let it ride on my chest until it regained its senses enough to buzz off to another flower.


This section of the south bank of the Thames is quite industrial. Once you leave Thamesmead it's all crumbling wharves, docks and machinery. Above is the old Crossness Pumping Station, the terminus of London's Victorian sewage system, parts of which are open as a museum. It looks amazing inside; I'll have to check it out sometime.

At first, when the station opened in the 1860s, it mostly collected the city's sewage in a reservoir and pumped it into the Thames on the ebb tide. Eventually technology developed to separate out the sludge, which was taken farther to sea on barges and dumped, while liquids were released into the river. I was surprised to see on this timeline that the dumping of sludge at sea didn't end until 1999!


Although the old Crossness station isn't operating any longer, there are now more modern sewage disposal facilities in the same area...


...including an incinerator for sludge (foreground). There's also an incinerator for business and household trash (the far building).

So, yeah, the Thames Path goes right past all of this, and although it didn't smell great it was quite interesting to see.


There was also some really good graffiti along this stretch -- precise and colorful!


At one point, the path went up this very steep ramp, which was equally steep going down the other side. I understand the "cyclists dismount" sign -- you'd bust your head rolling down this thing.


I wound up in Erith, a riverside community where I've been several times before, as parts of the Thames Path are shared by the Green Chain and London Loop walks, which I've already done. In fact I've photographed this crumbling dock before, though I had much sunnier conditions yesterday.

As I said, I decided to head home from here. I caught a train in Erith and then a couple of tube trains. I was listening to music on the way home -- the Bee Gees' song "Spirits Having Flown," to be precise -- when I suddenly felt a surge of emotion. This happens sometimes when I exercise and I think it has to do with endorphins, or maybe it was the music or being out in the sunshine all morning, but anyway the world suddenly seemed so BEAUTIFUL, even underground on a barreling tube train!

23 comments:

sparklingmerlot said...

It amazes me how recently it is that we have learned how to manage our effluence appropriately. Next step will be working out how to turn it all into fuel!

The world is indeed beautiful and you and your photos continue to show us just how beautiful.

Rachel Phillips said...

An interesting walk. These old pumping stations are wonderful examples of Victorian engineering; we have one in Norwich on the river here, now surrounded by smart apartments which is rather ironic. I don't suppose you pass many people of these walks?

Yorkshire Pudding said...

I admire the way the word "BROWN" has been created though in a place where its appreciation possibilities are slim. And "CALL YOUR MOM" is like a lament for those of us who have lost our mothers. It was a walk in interesting territory. I would have loved it.

Boud said...

I'm usually impressed with how you find your way home after these expeditions, multi train and tube rides. My brain doesn't operate with charts and timetables!

Ed said...

I love having those BEAUTIFUL moments when the world is perfect. Perhaps someday, we will all be able to experience those more often.

Ms. Moon said...

Dang, Steve! You did it! You got high on life!

Sharon said...

I've seen pictures of the Crossness Pumping station and it really is a beautiful place. I was just going to say that you got high on life but Ms. Moon beat me to it. I'm glad you took that bee for a ride along the way.

The Bug said...

What a lovely day! And I love that it seems like no matter where you go around London you can catch a ride home when you're ready.

Barbara Rogers said...

There will be one teaspoon of honey more in the world thanks to your giving that bee a ride while she rested! (Or something like that.) Enjoyed the ride along through your walk, meself.

Red said...

I imagine many people would avoid this area.

Moving with Mitchell said...

Yay for endorphins — and for making the effort to get them pumping. Those old pumping stations are beautiful. I wonder what someone will end up doing with the remaining buildings.

NewRobin13 said...

Really nice long walk there, Steve. I love how you let that punch-drunk bee rest on your chest. You are a true mensch.

Michael said...

I get the same feelings when I exercise or take a long walk. As a matter of fact, your photos on your walks always inspire me to stop and look and to take photos. I love doing that as it helps me to remember the time and place when I was walking.

Colette said...

The world I see through your eyes on this blog is so often beautiful.

Pixie said...

This probably sounds weird but I've always found sewage disposal so interesting. Humans have always shit and I always wonder what they did with it and how they prevented diseases from that shit. When I was in junior high school, we took our class to the sewage treatment plant and it was fascinating.

Linda Sue said...

We live a few blocks from city poop tanks, they are cleaner than ever and the ground around it is lush, Used to be the dog park where i took Dexter. London - history - not much leveled to build newer "better"...Your world is beautiful! A walk always brings that to the fore!
The graffiti "Call your Mom" just about killed me....

Kelly said...

"Do Good Things". I like the way they drew that.

I'm glad you let the bee have a rest stop on you. They are so crucial to our world!

Allison said...

Waste treatment is so interesting. Victoria British Columbia did not break ground on its first treatment plant until 2017. Prior to that, it went into the ocean.
Even Manzanar had treatment plants during WWII.

https://www.surfrider.org/news/the-first-sewage-treatment-plant-in-victoria-british-columbia-is-under-cons

Margaret said...

I've had those explosions of joy sometimes; they are such a rush! The tagging there is much more beautiful than what I see here. Ugh.

Jeanie said...

I wish I had that explosion of joy after exercising. I might do it more often. I do like that graffiti and those ruins of the doc are visually interesting.

Debby said...

1999?!!! That is astounding to me. I suppose if I researched my own country, I'd unearth some real horrors though, so I will shut up.

Those rushes of emotion are like exclamation marks in our lives, aren't they?

River said...

You have incinerators for business and household trash? As far as I know ours all goes to landfill, a far less satisfactory method of disposal.

Steve Reed said...

Caro: It IS amazing that all this time I've assumed humans are disposing of waste safely, and yet some systems remain fairly primitive. (See

Rachel: Not a whole lot of people, especially on these segments that are farther out of town. On my Friday walk I only passed one other person! (Or rather he passed me, on a bicycle.)

YP: Yeah, the "Brown" allusion crossed my mind too, but I'm hoping it's not meant in that sense.

Boud: The beautiful thing is, here you don't need to know all that. Just show up at the station, and a train will be coming within a fairly short period of time.

Ed: They're like a little ecstatic rush, aren't they?

Ms Moon: I did! LOL! It's happened to me before too. I think it's endorphins.

Sharon: Yeah, I want to go back and check out that pumping station at some point. Maybe when winter comes and I need indoor activities.

Bug: Yeah, the transport network in this town is phenomenal. Sometimes things break down but generally it's very easy to get around.

Barbara: That bee was carrying enough pollen to make at least a teaspoon! (Do they make honey out of the pollen? I guess not...the pollen distribution is just a side effect of collecting nectar, I think...?)

Red: It was not a heavily traveled path, no.

Mitchell: I don't know what the other buildings are used for. Maybe just storage for the existing sewage works. (Which are next door.)

Robin: It freaked me out a little when it landed on me, but I knew it wasn't going to hurt me, being a bumblebee.

Michael: I really believe I notice so much more when I have my camera.

Colette: Good! That's my mission! :)

Pixie: I agree! It's quite fascinating! I can't imagine being so put off that I wouldn't want to walk this section of the path. But I can imagine some people might react that way.

Linda Sue: Yeah, that graffiti spoke to me too. :(

Kelly: Yes! And the poor thing did seem exhausted.

Allison: That is ASTONISHING! Where have they been all this time?

Margaret: Well, it's not all beautiful. There's a lot of very amateurish graffiti that I don't photograph.

Jeanie: Yeah, it doesn't happen every time for me, but when it does it's a great feeling!

Debby: Isn't that amazing? But you're right -- there's probably stuff going on around all of us that would appall us if we knew.

River: There's a landfill too, on the north side of the river, and I'm not sure what percentage of trash goes where.