Thursday, February 24, 2022

Coventry


I decided to have a little adventure yesterday, so I hopped on a train and went to Coventry, a city north of London near Birmingham. It's renowned for its cathedral and university, and because it was heavily bombed during World War II, much of the inner city has been rebuilt in a modern style.

Although I wanted to see the cathedral, I must confess my primary reason for going to Coventry was much less highbrow:
 

Fans of the TV show "Keeping Up Appearances" will recognize the house on the left as that of Hyacinth and Richard Bucket, and the one on the right as the home of their neighbors Elizabeth and Emmet. These houses in a suburb of Coventry were used for exterior filming for the series. Hyacinth's house, you may have noticed, has been added on to -- her front room has been extended toward the street.

I texted a picture to Dave, and he said, "I can see the Royal Warrant!"

I texted back, "I had to run away before she made me take coffee on her Royal Doulton with the hand-painted periwinkles!"


Then I went to visit Onslow and Daisy in their council house (second from left). It's been spiffed up since the TV show, and their street now ends in a little park. I think when Hyacinth and Richard used to park their car in the cul-de-sac it was just surrounded by brambles.

Anyway, visiting these locations took most of the morning, as I had to catch a series of city buses which fortunately were very frequent and convenient. I used my phone to track my location, so I would know when to disembark, and by the time I got back to the center of town my battery was getting low -- a potential problem because my train ticket was electronic and I had to show it on my phone to get back to London. This led to a fiasco involving me buying a phone charger, going to a packed Starbucks to plug it in, getting no juice when I did so and thinking the charger didn't work, taking it back to the phone shop, having to get the phone jack "serviced" (i.e. cleaned out), and finally successfully charging the phone while I had coffee at a restaurant on the university campus.

Technology!

With that out of the way, I went to see the cathedral.


Coventry's medieval cathedral was destroyed by World War II bombing. The shell has been left standing as a sort of monument to our human folly.


There's even broken stained glass still clinging to the Gothic window frames.

Next to the ruins a new cathedral opened in 1962, and it's unlike any other cathedral you'll see in England -- a very modernist structure with a mid-century aesthetic.


I like it and think it's quite beautiful, but I'm guessing that opinions are divided. It has some very modern stained and etched glass, and inlaid stone floors, among other features.


I had lunch among the students in that university restaurant, and then took a walk through the neighborhood known as "Fargo" (an abbreviation of Far Gosford Street), which included lots of little shops and restaurants and looked like it was probably a student hangout.


This old theatre looks like it probably has an interesting history. It appears the venue moved to a new location (or at least that was the plan). The top photo is also from my walk to the Fargo neighborhood.

From there I headed back to the train and came back to London, arriving back home at about 6 p.m. It was a fun day out!

57 comments:

  1. And so you ostracized yourself! I love that you sent yourself there. AND if's Bouquet- Please.
    Seeing the houses is pretty perfect.
    The new church has a wonderful aesthetic , I love it!

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  2. A great day out by the sound of it. I didn't know the Bucket house et al were in Coventry. What fun to see them. "I'm calling on my white slim line mobile telephone from my stylish new front home extension".
    My old Humber Super Snipe was born and bred in Coventry.
    Maybe a power bank would have been a better buy than a charger.
    I like both cathedrals, the remains and the new.
    Thanks for the visit to Coventry.

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    1. I didn't even think of buying one of those power packs. That probably WOULD be a good idea.

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  3. Too bad you forgot your charger...Thanks for the tour.

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    1. It's not that I forgot it, exactly -- I seldom carry a charger on a day trip because up to now I haven't needed one. But I guess I'll start!

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  4. Did you see Lady Godiva riding naked through the streets? I believe there's a statue of her somewhere in the city centre.

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    1. I didn't even realize Lady Godiva was a real person until I went to Coventry!

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  5. Wow, that was a fabulous day out. I see my birth sign is on the floor of the new Cathedral too. lol
    Briony
    x

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    1. Yeah, I don't know if those are really meant to be Pisces, but they definitely look like that!

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  6. Any concerns in London regarding the invasion of Ukraine? Such sadness watching it from here in the US.

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    1. Oh, plenty of concerns! I didn't even know it had begun until I published this post. See my subsequent post!

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  7. I didn't know that was the exterior location of hyacinth's adventures. I always liked that all the sisters were named for flowers, Hyacinth, Daisy, Rose, wonder if there was another?
    Coventry is a tragic place, the total destruction was terrible.

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    1. You've forgotten Violet. She lives in an estate with a Mercedes, a swimming pool, and a polo pony.

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    2. Yes, Debby's right -- Violet is the fourth sister. "She's the one with the Mercedes, sauna and room for a pony."

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  8. Those remnants of war are especially sad today.

    I don't know much about the shows you referenced, but I do like seeing spots I see on TV in "real" life.

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    1. If you ever have a chance to watch "Keeping Up Appearances," give it a try. We love it. We've seen all the episodes multiple times.

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  9. Great little day trip. Just last week I saw in the newspaper that Hyacinth (Patricia Routledge) turned 93 (Feb 17). Amazing career.

    As Bob noted, seeing the remnants of the bombed cathedral is particularly poignant this morning.

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    1. Yes, Patricia Routledge is still around, as are Daisy, Elizabeth, Emmet and "that dishy Vicar." Richard, Onslow and Rose have left us, sadly.

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  10. I think the shell of the old cathedral is so beautiful. Sad. And beautiful. And a fitting picture and reminder of what war does and well, here we are again...
    I can't believe it.

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    1. Yes, it's a very powerful structure in its demolished state.

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  11. For reasons I sometimes understand and other times fail to, the family that took me on as a 14 year old German exchange student for three months consisted of a Polish father with war trauma and a mother who was born in Coventry (to Irish parents) during WWII. Apart from the usual sight seeing trips organised by the school (Ely, Cambridge, Oxford, London), the weekend family trips included a day in Coventry where I was quizzed all day and did not have a clue what to answer. The father never spoke to me again after that. The daughter came to stay with us twice after that though. And I also went to a David Bowie concert while there.

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    1. Well I can certainly see how they might have been traumatized, but making you pay for their trauma seems pretty unfair!

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  12. I LOVE THIS: Makes a mental note: See Coventry!

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    1. It's worth a day. There's also an art museum and some other sights that I didn't get around to.

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  13. That cathedral is hauntingly beautiful and I thought the same as several other commenters about the destruction going on in the Ukraine. I hope Putin can be stopped...

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  14. I've never lived near a house that has been used in movies or television but I live just down the road from the house used as the backdrop in the Grant Wood painting "American Gothic".

    I'm forever getting pocket lint into the charging port of my cellphone. I keep a supply of plastic dental picks at home just for servicing, i.e. cleaning, my charging port out.

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    1. Wow, that Grant Wood house is a pretty major sight, I would think! Have you blogged about it?

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    2. I have but it is a post that has since been removed.

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  15. What a fun day! I've only ever seen snippets of that show, but I think I'd really enjoy it.

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  16. Quite an interesting day. I especially loved seeing the old cathedral. Enjoy your day, hugs, Edna B.

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    1. The cathedral is beautiful, even as ruins. (And the "new" one is beautiful too.)

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  17. I love all these photos and your narrative. And the trip to visit the Buckets, as well as Elizabeth, Emmett, Onslow, and Daisy, is wonderful. I would do that! But I don’t see Hyacinth’s dusky pink alarm box. Has it been removed?

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    1. Ha! I remember that episode! I must admit I didn't notice. (I got out of there pretty quickly, since people DO live in those houses!)

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  18. Now that sounds like my kind of exploring day. I love it. It reminds me of the time I tracked down Hercule Poirot's London townhouse. I'll have to watch an episode of Keeping Up Appearances to remind myself of how the house looked before the extension. I love that you also found Onslow's house.
    I like that modern cathedral too. I see there were quite a few people there to take in the site of the old cathedral.

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    1. Yes, there were more people in the old ruins than in the newer building, I think -- though to be fair some of the kids were using them as a jungle gym!

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  19. What a wonderful outing you had and thanks for the Coventry pictures. I'm reading Erik Larsen's "The Splendid and the Vile" and just read about the bombing of Coventry. Your pictures give me some context. I love how you can get around so easily with public transportation. I live in Northern California and need a car to go anywhere though my son, who lives in San Francisco, has a better time of it. Thank you for sharing your interesting life.

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    1. How timely, to read this post just as you're reading that book! Yes, it's great how comprehensive the public transportation is here. Dave and I have never owned a car in England and we don't plan to get one anytime soon.

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  20. I don't know the show but it would be fun to visit the places we see in series or films. I've been over many times to Roslyn where some of the exteriors for Northern Exposure were done. However, my parents grew up over there so I was already very familiar with the town. I like the cathedral although it is a bit too modern for my taste. I've been in many beautiful churches but one of my favorites is Notre Dame de Montreal; it was unbelievable.

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    1. I love visiting the filming locations for my favorite shows. I've been to Montreal but I didn't visit that church, unfortunately!

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  21. Reed, S. (2024). There and Back in a Day: Excursions by Train from London. Forthcoming.

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  22. Coventry is a city I've never managed to visit on any of my trips to England. I would LOVE to visit the cathedral, to see both the broken and the new. I can't imagine anyone looking at the modern cathedral and seeing it as anything other than beautiful. Love that inlaid stone!

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    1. Well for all I know people DO regard it as beautiful. I just know that sometimes mid-century modern and brutalist architecture get a rather cool reception.

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  23. I do love a good cathedral. If you are ever in Dresden, Germany, visit the Frauenkirche. The allies bombed it into a pile of rubble. After the wall came down, it was rebuilt. It is a thing of beauty now. I like the new cathedral, with its references to the old. Those chairs look really painful.

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    1. I've never been to Dresden, but I did see a famous church in Berlin (on the Ku-Damm, I believe?) that's been allowed to stand in its damaged state as a similar type of war reminder. I did not sit in those chairs!

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  24. That was quite a walk, Steve. Love these photos.

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  25. The modern Cathedral is quite nice, but those chairs look like they've been borrowed from a school assembly hall.
    You need to buy a portable "powerpack" or whatever they get called in your country. Charge it up at home and carry it with you when you go out. When your phone goes flat or near to, plug in the portable power pack and charge it up again. They come in various sizes, mine is small and fits in a pocket, although I usually put it in whatever bag I'm carrying.

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    1. I didn't try those chairs! And I didn't even think of a portable battery pack, but of course that makes sense. My phone rarely runs out of juice but it's getting up there in age and doesn't hold a charge as well as it used to, so maybe I'll make the investment.

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  26. Steve, I love how you get out and walk finding all of the neat things that you photograph. I envy your ability to be able to walk. I can only walk about a block now and have to use my walker when I do. Thankfully it has a seat so if I have to stop and sit for a minute, it comes in handy.
    I miss walking! This comes from a girl who use to walk 5 miles a day, every day with wind rain sleet or snow lol.
    Since I lived in Southern Nevada, it was really the wind that got to me. Not counting the dry heat but I was accustomed to that. In all the years I lived there, I got out and explored like you do and the last year I lived there we had a huge snowstorm and we got 8 feet of snow! It would be a good guess to say that for 4 days, I stayed inside to the sadness of my dog Bandit who was use to our daily walks.

    The Cathedral is Beautiful, but I would hate to be the one cleaning it. Can you just imagine moving those chairs and cleaning the floor and then having to put them all back evenly? I would guess that it would take about a crew of 15 or more! But it would be awesome to just sit there and listen to the choir sing or watch a special performance.
    I also enjoyed seeing the pictures that you bought. They had interesting things in them that a writer could describe. Especially the two of where the stores were located. Sorry I can't remember the names. I did have to wonder, just where are the parents of the little girl in the roadway? LOL that is the Mom in me. I still just cannot believe how relaxed times were then compared to now.

    Have a awesome day! xx


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  27. I'd love to see the inside of the Empire, though it's probably just a shell now. I can't resist an old theatre. I used to work for public television and Keeping Up Appearances had a huge following, so I know that house! What a fun day. The contrast of the two cathedrals is very marked. I like seeing them both. I'm glad they didn't repair the original. All the more poignant thee days.

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