Monday, March 24, 2025

Back to Leigh


After spending the morning on housekeeping -- mostly dishes from our dinner party, which I managed to do in three rather than four dishwasher-loads -- I headed out into the city yesterday for some urban adventures.

Remember how I went to the Leigh Bowery show at the Tate a couple of weeks ago, but couldn't stay long enough to see the whole thing? Well, I decided to go back and take it all in this time.

First, I got online and joined the Tate as a member. I've been meaning to do it for a while. Membership entitles me to free entry to their special exhibits, as well as access to their members' cafes and some other perks. (I think there's also a magazine, which is more curse than blessing, but whatever.) Then I set out for the museum on the tube.

My plans were immediately thrown when I learned that Southwark station, the tube station closest to the Tate Modern, was closed. I think this was for engineering works. I wound up having to go to London Bridge and then walk back through Borough Market and along the river to the museum.


The show was excellent and I'm so glad I went back. Bowery was a fascinating character, so inventive and original. I was in awe of his creativity, which began with astonishing clothes and eventually segued to padded, sculpted wearable art like his Mrs. Peanut outfit.

He also posed for painter Lucian Freud, whose canvases of Bowery are included in the show. It was an interesting exhibit encompassing not only fashion but video, music, performance, painting and photography, and bits of cultural paraphernalia as small as postcards, letters and Polaroid prints. (You know I loved that!)

Afterwards I went to the Tate's members' cafe, thinking I might sit and have a coffee. Well, the place was packed, and there were no free tables, so the best I could do was take a picture of its expansive view over the Thames and St. Paul's Cathedral.
 

Afterwards, to avoid going back to London Bridge, I decided to walk along the South Bank. I eventually crossed the river on the pedestrian paths next to the Hungerford Bridge and made my way through Trafalgar Square to Piccadilly, where I caught a bus.


Here's a little video of my pedestrian activities. You will see or hear:
1. The bells tolling at Southwark Cathedral
2. The view from the pedestrian bridge, known as the Golden Jubilee Bridges
3. A peg-legged pigeon at Trafalgar Square
4. The artwork on the square's Fourth Plinth, called "Mil Veces un Instante," or "A Thousand Times in an Instant," by Mexican artist Teresa Margolles. It's made of plaster casts of the faces of transgender, non-binary and gender-nonconforming people, meant to raise awareness of the violence so many of them face.

The bus home was diverted through Westminster by pro-Palestine demonstrations, but by the time it got to St. John's Wood and West Hampstead it was back on its regular route. I enjoyed sitting on the upper deck and watching the world go by; much slower than the tube but also much more fulfilling.


I love the little surprises that inevitably come with the view -- like four people carrying a large mattress through St. John's Wood. Urban life! In cities, people live right out in the open, carrying their stuff through the streets and rubbing elbows with passers-by, for better or worse. In most of America they and their mattress would be concealed in a car or truck. (Well, granted, the mattress might be tied to the top.)

Anyway, it was a good day and I intend to use my Tate membership for a few more exhibits in coming months!

55 comments:

  1. Always enjoy your videos of London - so different to my quiet life here

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    1. Glad you like them! They're fun to make, too.

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  2. So much for getting away from the riff raff at the member's cafe, but what a wonderful view.
    Normally I would disagree with you about buses, but no matter how efficient The Tube is for getting about London, it not what you would call a pleasant experience. In this case, buses are nicer, albeit slower, at times much slower.
    I note all the cranes in the skyline. That is not a sign of an unprosperous city.

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    1. Yeah, the Tate must have a LOT of members. (Or maybe they were all there on Sunday?) There are perpetually a lot of cranes around London, it seems.

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  3. Good old London Town on a grey day.
    How disappointing that you couldn't get a coffee in the members' café. Demand a discount on your membership fee!

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    1. Ha! Well, if it becomes a chronic problem, I might do that!

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  4. Interesting video. I like the idea behind the fourth plinth

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  5. The idea of a changing sculpture, not one "set in stone" (!)

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    1. Yes, the artist mentions that the plaster faces are meant to weather and deteriorate over time. (Or do you mean Leigh Bowery's sculptural clothing? In either case, unconventional sculpture!)

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  6. You will get good value from your membership. You can make many more visits to see the permanent collection over a period of time and wander into the Blavatnik extension and shop too.

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    1. Yeah, I always like the Tate Modern and I don't see the permanent collection as much as I'd like. I believe the membership works at the Tate Britain too.

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  7. It sounds like a full and interesting day even though it was as grey as our Sunday was 180 miles north.
    P.S. "perc"? Tut-tut!

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    1. I am bowing to your grammar policing on this, because the dictionary concurs, even though I'm sure I've seen perc used as well as perk. (In fact, my former employer used to issue corporate recognition certificates known as "percs," which may be why that spelling sticks in my mind.)

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  8. Love your video. Well done. The mattress photo is so funny. And thanks for the Leigh Bowery links. Some beautiful clothes. His coordinating “fabric faces” give me the creeps and yet are beautifully done.

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    1. I think they're interesting partly because they ARE creepy, and yet simultaneously full of bling and beauty. Such a strange aesthetic.

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  9. My first thought was, "Are those guys with the mattress part of the protest?'

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  10. From my rural outsider perspective, it seems as if London is always in a mini state of upheaval. There is always some sort of disruption going on. I suppose I would get used to it if I lived there for awhile. I'm pretty spoiled living in rural America where the only disruptions are usually due to weather. Nobody goes on strike, protests or does much of anything out here.

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    1. There's always something, but the city is so vast that most of us can just go about our business and not be affected. (Unless we're in the immediate neighborhood.) In this case the protests were on Oxford Street, which my bus would normally cross.

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  11. I love seeing these posts as I will never get to London myself. You always find such different views to share and you include a quirky variety for us to enjoy. Very entertaining, Steve!

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    1. The quirkiness of any city is part of what appeals to me!

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  12. Thank you for taking us along with you! What a wide and diverse world you live in and I love that you go out and explore it.

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    1. I don't explore it enough. I should do it more.

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  13. Each city or area has it's own character. So there are reasons why in some areas they carry mattresses. My guess no road access.

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    1. They probably had just a short way to go and figured it was easier to carry the bed than hire a truck!

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  14. I thoroughly enjoyed this post and the video. Once again, it makes me wish I was there. Good idea getting a Tate membership. I got a membership to the Art Institute of Chicago before I went there and it was one of the best moves I've made. Same with the Met in NYC.

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    1. Yeah, I feel good about it and I'm sure I'll enjoy it. I'm surprised I didn't get one before now, honestly.

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  15. Another gorgeous tree at the top. Leigh Bowery was definitely 'out there'. Pedestrian urban life, very different. Even when I lived in the inner city it was still car centric.

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    1. Southern cities are often not very walkable, both because they grew after the introduction of cars and because they're so hot!

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  16. That does sound like a lovely day! I'm glad you went out & about & took us with you.

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  17. Your pics today are so lovely. All your pics are lovely, regardless of where you snap them.

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    1. Thank you! I still think of this as predominantly a photo-driven blog, even though it's become more of a journal over the years.

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  18. I love the vibrant life in a big city; there is always something to see or do if we choose to. Otherwise we can stay home and read or putter in the garden/yard. Seeing the mattress carried around reminded me of living in Seattle in the U district where there was always furniture being put on the sidewalk to donate or transported by hand.

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    1. I think interesting things are all around us, no matter where we live, but I am especially inspired in an urban environment.

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  19. A very good day! Thanks for the walk! Always loved the artistry of Leigh and his mates , though at the time it scared me a little bit ( as intended)...The lad was genius, his favorite fabric - skin and flesh. I read that he had so much personality and large arty -ness that he flitted from friend to friend as not a single one could handle him for very long...other than Nicloa. Again, thanks for the great day!! Tube is a sort of uncomfortable "beam me up" , the bus is a journey, an adventure, The former is conceptual incoherence , the later is poetry. That is what I reckon!

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    1. of course walking is the best!

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    2. I'm not surprised to read that Leigh Bowery was a bit "much" for his friends to handle. He seemed very big both in physical presence and personality.

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  20. You'll make good use of your Tate membership. They are one of the best.
    City life is so vibrant. The sights and sounds are engaging.
    Gathering friends to carry a mattress down the city street to the flat is genius. They found the no cost delivery solution!

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    1. Someone probably owed a six-pack or a pizza after that project, so maybe not NO-cost! :)

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  21. I'm so sure I couldn't live with so many people around. But it's always good to get a glimpse of different ways of life! That pigeon is very different in colouration to what we have here - so much white. Ours are grey-blue.

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    1. The weird thing is, I normally don't feel very crowded by people. Walking to work or sitting in our garden, I'm on my own!

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  22. I know tolling bells are grating for some people, but I love change ringing.
    I bet you'll get a lot of use out of your Tate membership. There's no law that says you have to read the magazine from cover to cover each month/quarter (or whatever its timeframe).

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    1. But then I feel guilty for wasting it. If it comes I feel obligated to read it!

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  23. Oh, it's so nice to SEE London again! I really enjoyed the video. Surprised at how similar the Millennium Bridge (which we took to go to Tate) and Golden Jubilee bridge look. Loved hearing those bells. And so nice to have the membership now. Maybe next time the cafe won't be so packed! Isn't the top deck the best spot to sit? We didn't hope a bus this time (well, for more than a short hop). I missed it!

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    1. I always sit on the top deck in the front, if I can. The view is the best!

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  24. Really loved seeing your video of London. Takes me right back to my days there. Any chance of a pic of one of the iconic underground stations designed by Leslie Green - I just love the glazed tiling.
    Wendy (Wales)

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    1. I think the Holloway Road station was by Leslie Green, wasn't it? I blogged that one back in January:
      https://shadowsteve.blogspot.com/2025/01/kit.html

      There are probably others that have popped up on this blog over the years! (And no doubt there will be more!)

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  25. Just catching up. Leigh Bowery was lovely. I really love the spirit of his costumes, especially the idea of the dress covering the face, too. And his reference to heavy use of sequins. He knew how to play

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    1. He WAS very playful, I agree. That comes across in the BBC video about his clothing.

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  26. What a fabulous day. How great was that?

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  27. I had time today to watch the video, it's lovely, thank you. Loved seeing so many birds flying about over the bridge and the fountain is very nice. I enjoyed the cathedral bells too.

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    1. Yeah, the birds flew in at just the right moment! I got lucky!

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