Wednesday, July 30, 2025
Sexy Pompiers and Gigantic Tiramisu
Now that my location has been revealed -- and it is indeed Paris, not Blackpool -- let me tell you a little about what we're doing here. Dave and I both thought a short break away from home would do us some good. After Olga's decline and death, we needed an escape. So in the midst of my grief I bought a couple of Eurostar tickets and made some reservations.
Looking at the receipt later, I saw that I paid about £720 for these tickets, which seems insane to me. I didn't even realize it at the time. Fortunately we're staying in an inexpensive hotel -- the Hotel Flore in Montmartre -- that has long been a favorite of mine, so that balances everything out.
We got here Monday afternoon and wandered up to the Place du Tertre for some cafe-sitting and people-watching. The place was mobbed with tourists, as you could see in my photos yesterday. But I love this part of town, its scenic streets and steep stairs, and we had a good time.
Yesterday morning I got up early and went back to Sacre Coeur, and it was a much better experience. There was virtually no one around, the sun was shining, and I bought an almond croissant and some coffee and ate sitting on the steps overlooking the city. A group of hunky guys wearing matching running clothes went by (top photo) and I realized they were members of the Paris Fire Brigade. I suddenly felt in desperate need of resuscitation but sadly they were too busy exercising to notice.
After walking along Rue des Abbesses and peeking inside a neighborhood church, I came back to the hotel, collected Dave (who was sleeping in) and we made our way to the cafe above, where we had coffee and croissants beneath the shady locust trees along Rue Caulaincourt. Then we headed into town to see some sights on the Ile de Cité.
I wanted to see the newly refurbished Cathédrale Notre Dame, and Dave wanted to take another look at Saint Chapelle, which he visited with a school group but was unable to see well because of renovations and unruly students. We did Saint Chapelle first -- and it was indeed beautiful with its acres of stained-glass windows depicting scenes from the Bible. (It's still under renovation, though.)
Notre Dame was remarkable (above). You'd never know there was a fire. Some of the walls and ceilings look fresher than they did, but not jarringly so, and the windows and the art are intact and displayed as usual. I'm sure there are differences that people intimately familiar with the building would notice but I was just happy to once again see the rose window I photographed back in 2013.
Here's another view. Pretty amazing restoration!
We had omelettes and wine in a cafe across the street (as you can see there's still scaffolding on the exterior of Notre Dame). This cafe is one that my father photographed on his own trip to Paris as a college student in 1957:
It was much quieter then! (And it had a different name.) Dave insisted I show our waiter this photo. "She's not going to care!" I said, knowing that French waiters are notoriously busy and somewhat curt, but I tried anyway -- and indeed, she did not care.
We walked over to the Left Bank and had a coffee in a cafe with a view of a busy roundabout on the Boulevard Saint Germain. I ordered a tiramisu that proved to be as big as a baby's head. I couldn't begin to eat it all.
Afterwards we went back to the room for a rest. I did some blog reading. I know I'm behind on responding to comments but let me just say THANK YOU to those of you who identified my mysterious moth on Monday as a common footman! I'm so glad to know what it is.
Last night we had a bit of a fiasco. Soon after booking this trip, while still in London, Dave made a dinner reservation at a restaurant he'd read about online called Benoit. When we checked the location yesterday on Google Maps, I simply typed in Benoit and showed the results to Dave, who agreed that was our restaurant. So we hopped on the Metro and made our way there, arriving just in time for our 7 p.m. reservation. The place was completely dead, and when I said we had a reservation the host simply gestured to the acres of empty tables and told us to sit anywhere. We sat and looked at the menu, and Dave said, "Is this the right restaurant?"
And sure enough, it wasn't. We were expected at a different restaurant Benoit a mile away. So Dave and I bid our host a hasty adieu, explaining we were in the wrong place, and once again hopped on the Metro. We got to the correct Benoit a half-hour late but they seated us and we had a fine dinner and a good laugh.
Back to London today!
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Despite the slip-up, a worthwhile trip...and the shadows in the first photo with the runners and steps is really good!
ReplyDeleteFeast for you eyes. Was it crowded otherwise?
ReplyDelete*your*
ReplyDeleteSounds fabulous. I am glad you are enjoying your impulse break.
ReplyDelete"Dave insisted I show our waiter this photo. "She's not going to care!" I said..." Surely then - you had a waitress attending to you and not a waiter! By the way, I found your father's photograph quite charming and it is so nice that you kind of replicated the scene. If only your photographic ability was on a par with your father's talent! Keep practising lad!
ReplyDeleteGoodness, that price for your Eurostar tickets is steep!! My sister and I paid nowhere near that, even though she booked much later than usual (she thought she‘d already done it but somehow had not). I know it also depends on the day of week one travels, so maybe yours was just an unlucky combination of travel dates and spontaneous booking.
ReplyDeleteLove it how at the café all chairs face the boulevards - the perfect place for people watching!
Check and double check when making bookings. I bet you've not been the only people to make the same mistake.
ReplyDeleteYour father's photo is nice. I am not surprised about the waitress being uninterested. Wait staff in busy tourist areas can be very offhand, and as we discovered staff in Paris have perfected it. The weather looks quite good, too.
PS. I must be getting old. I noticed the interesting shadows on the steps in the first photo.
DeleteYou can't keep up with comments and I can't even keep up with blogs! I visit daily but some of you have put up two or even three blogs overnight! Paris looks beautiful.
ReplyDeleteI haven't been able to keep up with the Blogs either so I am glad to hear you took this Trip as a balm to your Soul after losing Dear Olga. Paris looks Beautiful, I haven't been to France since I was a Child. It was always one of the Favorite Countries of my Parents, they always said that the French knew how to 'Live'.
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like Paris is offering exactly the kind of solace and quiet renewal you both needed, woven with beauty, memory, and just the right touch of serendipity.
ReplyDeleteNice getaway. I've been there quite a bit but never as a tourist. As a student being herded from class to class, and later working as an au pair. So I lived like a resident and missed the classic sightseeing! I remember the endless climbing in Montmartre though.
ReplyDeleteLove that Notre Dame is coming back; so nice to see that.
ReplyDeleteAnd the waiter not caring is so French.
The first Benoit was probably a hidden gem of a restaurant but I guess you'll never know now. I once had a boss call me from Grand Rapids, South Dakota asking for me to verify the address he was supposed to be at for a meeting. I looked on his calendar and told him he would miss his meeting as it was in Grand Rapids, Michigan!
ReplyDeleteI wish I was the kind of person to get up early & roam around while my husband was still asleep, but alas, I am Dave. Ha!
ReplyDeleteLook- money is well-spent when it takes you to Paris for a little trip when you need some relief from such sadness. I think you made a very good decision, expensive tickets or not. Notre Dame surely is looking amazing. I vaguely remember being there which is rather sad.
ReplyDeleteI loved your line about suddenly being in desperate need of resuscitation.
I'm glad you had a little getaway. Everytime I see an ornate church or cathedral I think about all that money spent to the glory of god instead of going to the poor and downtrodden as Jesus commanded. At least the artisans got work.
ReplyDeleteThe difference in Notre Dame is amazing. My photos taken a year before the fire are so dark looking. I'm glad you also went to Saint Chapelle. That has to be my favorite spot in Paris. When the sun is shining through those windows, it's sort of magical. I'm a bit jealous of those croissants. Nobody makes croissants like the French.
ReplyDeleteYour brief get away is one for the books! You know how to do it right. Having studied the language I am sure that you knew exactly what to do, though your accent might get in the way - Paris being itself. Photos are fabulous, as usual but even more so because- Paris! The running firemen and step shadows is a. splendid first prize winner. Cat graffiti- yes, Olga approved! Her little dog body gone, her little non dog body leaping beside you. That is what I think, anyway. Glad you are doing spontaneous trips without having to fret over logistics of Olga in her old dog body. London is the perfect stepping stone. thank you for the stunning photos of the town across the water.
ReplyDeleteQuite the adventure, your eventual dinner must have been good.
ReplyDeleteOoops ... I thought Dave arranged this little getaway! Thanks for sharing Paris with those of us who have never been and will never be in Paris! I get all my traveling done via the blogs I read ... saves me bunches of money! LOL
ReplyDeleteYou are having a very busy time. going back to look at things adds more to what you've seen.
ReplyDeleteThese photos make me want to go immediately to Paris and sit in a cafe with an almond croissant. I didn't find that Parisian waiters cared about much. LOL That's amazing that you made it to the correct restaurant after all. Sainte Chapelle is one of my favorite places in Paris.
ReplyDeleteWell, even if the waitress didn’t care, I love the old photo and comparing to the new. But then I’m not Parisian and am probably much too enthusiastic to fit in there. This looks like such a great time. So glad you got to the right restaurant!
ReplyDeleteHaha.... I didn't even notice the guys in the first photo. I was too taken with the fabulous shadows on the steps! The only thing better than a stained glass window is a rose window in stained glass. Beautiful!
ReplyDeleteI love the old and new photos. And I think an escape to Paris was a brilliant idea. There is so much to see and do it's hard to zero in on the thoughts in one's head. Not always restful but maybe activity is just the thing. I love Ste. Chappele. Which I always spell wrong and probably did there, too. And I'm impressed with the Notre Dame reno. So glad you figured out the restaurant snafu before your ordered!
ReplyDeleteWhen we were in Paris in 2015 we really wanted to see Ste. Chappele. Alas, alack, it was closed for some reason. It's amazing how crowded Paris is, I'm glad we went back in the early 2000s. Welcome home.
ReplyDeleteParis makes the perfect get-away!
ReplyDeleteI've been a few times and as your photo shows Notre Dame is being beautifully restored. The iconic re-created rose window and soaring ceilings are perfection.
Paris sidewalk cafes are also so enjoyed. Small tables and chairs filled with happy people enjoying wine, coffee, croissants... it is all great.
Your dinner sounds fabulous. French cooking is rich, flavorful, and beautifully presented.
Note: Your 6th photo from the top standing front and center shows a Mary Moon twin! Very Parisian looking, wearing a sheer blue/green mist oversized blouse over slacks and sexy dark sunglasses.
It's amazing to me that you can just hop over to Paris whenever you feel like it. How exciting! Glad you are having a nice time. Looks fabulous!
ReplyDeleteOh no, getting to the wrong Benoit restaurant is like a classic travel mix-up, but it is great that you ended up having a fine dinner and a good laugh about it.
ReplyDeleteWhen one can laugh in Paris, it is a good experience.
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