Yesterday we had a free day, so I set out to see Recoleta Cemetery, one of Buenos Aires' most famous and remarkable sights. Recoleta is about 4.5 km from our hotel, and I decided to walk. My route took me up along the Avenida 9 de Julio, which is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the widest avenue in the world. (Our guide from Tuesday, Luz, said the widest is actually in Brasilia, but who knows?)
I saw this photogenic cafe (above) somewhere along the way...
...as well as this building with a gigantic mural of Eva Perón speaking to the descamisados and trabajadores. Apparently on the other side of the building there's another image of her smiling, but I haven't seen it yet. (Again, that's according to Luz.)
The cemetery is amazing. It's where many of Buenos Aires' most famous and wealthy residents are interred, in incredibly ornate above-ground mausoleums. Most of the structures are quite old and some are in rather dire condition, with collapsing ceilings and coffins exposed to the elements. But others are more modern and look as cozy as (ironically) a living room, complete with houseplants.
The statuary is remarkable. I'd love to know how many angels are in Recoleta Cemetery.
Eva Perón is interred here, in a rather basic-looking black granite vault belonging to her family, the Duartes. Apparently Juan Perón, who remarried after Eva's death, is elsewhere. But I did see some other past presidents of Argentina as well as military officers and leaders of all sorts.
After exploring the cemetery and having coffee in a nearby cafe, I made my way back to the hotel. Along the Avenida Uruguay I came across this pack of middle-class dogs, parked for a dog-walker who was perhaps making either a delivery or a pick-up. The dog in front with the blue collar was barking, a slow, rhythmic chant of protest at being left tied to a tree.
I also saw a little brown dog, a terrier of some sort, running loose in traffic. He did not have a collar and seemed very freaked out. He ran past me and peered up into my face as if thinking, "Do I know you?!" I guess he was looking for someone familiar. Some police tried to catch him but he was fast and got away. My theory is that he was with one of these dog-walkers and slipped his collar, because he looked too healthy to be a stray. I hope that dog is still alive this morning.
I got back to the hotel and met up with Dave, and we went to find lunch. We walked back to Puerto Madera and ate at a cafe along the canal. I had a local beer called Patagonia. Not bad!
Then we walked into the nature preserve behind the skyscrapers of Puerto Madera in order to see the Rio de la Plata. We couldn't really see it from anywhere in town, and I didn't want to leave without at least catching a glimpse. As you can see, it's very wide. Uruguay is somewhere across all that water.
It was also nice to walk through a green space, with towering pampas grass and monk parakeets flying overhead. (Unlike the rose-ringed parakeets we see in our garden in London, monk parakeets are apparently a native species here.)
Today, we're off to Iguaçu Falls!
19 comments:
It is good that you are able to walk to see all this.
When Pirate went on FedEx training courses in the USA he was told never to walk or ride his bike to get to the training centre from the hotel...
A great walk Steve - thanks for sharing your impressions and pictures. Is there visible poverty in Buenos Aires? Your images leave an impression of economic stability and a degree of affluence.
Great walking! I want to see more. The story of that little dog has really shaken me up.
I love the mausoleums, not something i'd see here in Australia where the dead are underground with just a headstone mostly, though older graves do have statues etc.
The cemetery would have been on my sight seeing list too.
The Cemetry has one of the best sculptures I see!
I love cemeteries, especially those like the one you showed and those in New Orleans ... they look like small cities for the dead. And they fascinate me.
The cemeteries on Cozumel are much the same although not nearly as grand. It is heartbreaking though, to see how even after death, the wealthy rest in beautiful mausoleums with marble and statues while the poor citizens have but tiny hut-like structures.
Thank you so much for sharing this trip with us. It will no doubt be as close to traveling so far away as I will ever get.
I wonder how much a dog walker of middle class dogs can make in a month.
You are on vaca- aren't all of the days "free"days? Love the cemetery, weird that there is no dirt there.
I visited a cemetery in Portugal that was the same was, above ground vaults and mausoleums. also one in Edinburgh, Scotland. and again with Argentina! why Argentinians buried in Brazil.
That's a wonderful walk! I love old cemeteries like Pere la Chaise in Paris. They're like very quiet cities.
I took a boat over to Uruguay when I was there and enjoyed visiting a historic town there. I didn't get to the falls though so looking forward to those photos. That cemetery is amazing, isn't it? It would be interesting to count all the angels.
I finally have some time to spend with your blog & I can tell I'm going to enjoy going backward from here! I'm glad you're having a nice time. I'd probably want to wander in that cemetery forever! (Well, not forever, but a couple of hours anyway.)
I really enjoyed today's post, but I sure hope that dog found its person. Poor thing. I'm looking forward to your next stop. Iguaçu Falls! (Isn't it fun getting to use some of those special characters on your keyboard?!)
Walking gives you up close viewing of the city. The cemetery is quite amazing and a real tribute to the deceased. Love the angels and architecture of the structures. Thank you for sharing.
I would have enjoyed that cemetery very much. Like YP, I do find myself wondering about how the 'other half' live. Do you see signs of poverty at all?
It looks so European and the people smartly dressed. I imagine the population is very mixed colour wise. And wealth.
It sounds like you two are having a terrific time! I think cemeteries outside the US always seem more elaborate and interesting, though my experience is somewhat limited! I hope the little dog made it.
GZ: Where was his conference?! There are very few places I'd say are unsafe for walking, although traffic in the USA could be very dangerous for bicyclists.
YP: I'm sure there's plenty of poverty in some parts of town. Recoleta is a very prosperous area, as are most of the areas where we're spending our time, such as San Telmo and Puerto Madera.
Mitchell: It shook me up too! You should have been there!
River: It's the same with cemeteries I'm used to -- burials, by and large.
Ed: And well worth it!
Roentare: They really are amazing, and of such diversity -- everything from personal portraits and busts to angels and other religious figures.
Bob: Oh, yeah, New Orleans has great cemeteries. Savannah too!
Ms Moon: I suppose it is a final declaration of affluence and class, to be laid to rest in a fine mausoleum. I also wonder how much those dog-walkers make!
Linda Sue: Ha! Well, in a way. But we have scheduled excursions on certain days.
Ellen: We're not in Brazil yet! We're in Argentina still.
Margaret: Yes! They are indeed cities of the dead.
Sharon: Oh, that would have been a fun trip. I didn't even think of that!
Bug: Glad you're back! I guess work has kept you busy!
Kelly: I hope so too. I kept saying to Dave, "I wonder if that dog is still alive?!" So sad. And yes, I do love using these new characters!
Susan: Walking is the way to go, especially in Buenos Aires, which is very safe in the areas we're visiting.
Debby: Our guide told us not to go beyond certain boundaries at night, I presume because they are poorer areas. There are certainly less prosperous neighborhoods and I've seen some homeless people, but overall, it seems a very pleasant city.
Andrew: Yeah, I don't know much about the demographics, but I don't think Argentina has the legacy of slavery that you see in places like Brazil or the West Indies.
Jeanie: We are having a great time. And yes, I also hope that dog got rescued!
Post a Comment