Friday, November 26, 2021

Bray


We survived our odyssey to Bray, via tube, train and taxi. Olga coped well except for the cab, when she had to ride in the "wayback" (as we used to call it when riding in station wagons as kids) and she didn't like that very much. She wanted to sit with us in the back seat.

We're staying in a little house called Clematis Cottage, which is just steps from the Thames. We have a view of both the river and the fancy Waterside Inn, where we stayed the last time we were here, from our upstairs bedroom window.

In keeping with the clematis theme, the inside of the cottage is decorated in shades of purple, with gilded wall sconces, fluffy rugs and velvety furnishings. It may sound like a bordello but it doesn't come across that way at all. It's surprisingly nice. There's even a little Christmas tree, precariously perched on an end table. (It barely fits.)


We have a butler, though he can't seem to hold my drink level. I think maybe he's been imbibing himself. Jeeves!


Our hosts provided us with complimentary gin! Two kinds!

And there is indeed a functioning fireplace, which Olga loves.


Here's the downside -- the staircase. It is incredibly steep and the treads are very narrow. We have to help Olga both up and down it, and last night when we went to dinner we closed the inside door to keep her in the living room so she wouldn't attempt it by herself. All I need is an elderly dog falling down the stairs.

There are also no mugs in the kitchen -- only tiny, thin, delicate little cups that hold about two-thirds of an ounce. They do not work for my morning coffee. This morning I'm drinking it out of a bowl, French-style.

Dave posted to Facebook that we were staying here, and in doing so he misspelled clematis as "clamatis," which reminded me of Clamato, that clam juice/tomato drink often seen on store shelves in the states. So now we call our dwelling place Clamato Cottage.


In the afternoon Olga and I followed some walking trails which led out of the village to a nearby wilderness park. Maybe we'll explore it more today. There's a path along the Thames, too, but it's on the other side of the river, and darned if I can figure out how to get over there without swimming.


We also walked through the St. Michael's churchyard, where the "Buglins at Bray" insect hotel still exists! When I blogged about it more than seven years ago it was brand new. It has now settled into the landscape and I'm guessing it contains more bugs than ever. (But I didn't look closely.)

The Buglins name, incidentally, must be a play on Butlin's, a well-known chain of British holiday resorts. I don't think I knew that when I first saw it.


This is where Dave and I had dinner last night -- The Hind's Head, part of chef Heston Blumenthal's collection of restaurants. We both started with green pea soup, followed by a delicious halibut main course for me and oxtail & kidney pudding for Dave. A non-traditional Thanksgiving meal, but a satisfying one! The servers, detecting our accents, were careful to wish us a Happy Thanksgiving, even though it is not a thing here in England.

The village of Bray contains at least three Michelin-starred restaurants and there are others in nearby communities, so it's the perfect place for someone with Dave's culinary expertise and training. (He's a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York, a fact I don't mention much here anymore, now that we have devoted our lives to educating middle- and high-schoolers.)


We had clear skies and a pink sunset yesterday evening, but I think our weather is supposed to become less ideal today.

49 comments:

Moving with Mitchell said...

Clamato Cottage looks charming (except for those stairs and the lack of “beakers”). What a perfect escape. I’d love to have that butler, if only he could hold his liquor.

Anonymous said...

God how I hated English stairs. So dangerous. Once after a couple of glasses of wine I asked R to escort me up the stairs as I was afraid of falling.
The cottage looks nice and the Thames very calm and not quite as wide as I am used to seeing.
The butler looks like one of the two in the tv show To the Manor Born.
The insect hotel is pretty cool.
The Fat Duck has been renamed?
Three three star restaurants in one village. That is impressive.
I'll have the halibut, thanks. No offal for me.

Frances said...

Those stairs look like a bit of a death trap for people, never mind elderly dogs!
Just looked at my " rain" app and yes, in about half an hour you will be rained on for a while. Go back to bed and get the butler to bring you breakfast!!

gz said...

Looks very nice indeed.

"Wayback" is what we had to say to our friend's Huntaway in AotearoaNZ when throwing the ball and she was too close!!

Debby said...

The way back! Boy did that bring back memories! Yes. We had an old stationwagon with a third seat. There was the back seat, and then there was the way back. When I was a child, the way back was the seat my dad installed in the bed of the truck!

I'd be afraid of those steps for anyone! I'm surprised the owner of the place hasn't given a thought to liability if someone falls. I'd have those ripped out and something safer installed.

jenny_o said...

Tipsy Jeeves is hilarious! Love Olga on her pink blanket, absorbing the wood heat. Poor girl in the cab being treated like a ... dog. It's not right!

Doesn't the water look so liquid in those photos. I know that sounds stupid; after all, water IS liquid. But in some photos it can look so hard and in others so soft.

And now we know why Dave is such a good meal-maker! What an interesting first career.

Yorkshire Pudding said...

Clitoris Cottage looks very nice in spite of the steep staircase and the absence of mugs. How lovely to get away from the city if only for a little while. The Thanksgiving meal sounds wonderful.

Bob said...

Such a beautiful spot, and the room sounds lovely, except for the wee coffee cups.
I think Olga had the right idea of napping in front of the fire!

Ms. Moon said...

Clamato Cottage makes me laugh! How lovely it all is! I hope you guys are having just the best time. It's so good to get away and just be sweethearts, enjoy each other's company (and your dear Olga's) and enjoy good food and complimentary gin. The surroundings look ideal. Be careful on those stairs. They do look treacherous.

Mary said...

Immediately thought of Jeeves when I saw your first photo. Appropriate that he can't hold your drink quite level. Looks like a lovely place for a thanksgiving break. Poor Olga--the indignity of being placed in the far back.

Sympathize with you the lack of a decent mug. I've gotten so particular about having the right mug (in my case, a stainless steel travel mug that holds at least 15 oz) for hot tea, that I now bring mine along when I travel. Can't stand smaller vessels that don't keep my drink hot for more than a few minutes.

ellen abbott said...

We called it that too, the way back but as I recall the seat faced the rear and you looked out the rear window. I could be wrong about that. It's been a long time. As for the cups, they probably only drink tea. with their pinkies out. It looks like a lovely place.

Sharon said...

Everything about this place looks wonderful. That's a great photo of Olga by the fire. The Buglins at Bray has certainly settled into the earth since you last photographed it.
Your Thanksgiving dinner sounds great. The year I took my Dad to London it was over Thanksgiving week. I think we had pizza for our Thanksgiving dinner.

Anonymous said...

What a beautiful place to stay for your weekend getaway. It's so lovely there. I want that butler side table, even if he can't hold the drink level. Enjoy your stay there.

Red said...

Speaking of butlers, one of my favorites was Jeeves.

Ellen D. said...

What a beautiful place! The cottage is lovely and I am glad you got some nice weather to enjoy. Hope it stays nice!

The Padre said...

Fantastic Brother Reed - Absolutely Fantastic - Olga Girl Is One Lucky Gal - Rock On

Cheers

Linda Sue said...

Very nice, of course you and Dave and Olga would not stay in a dive. Up town boys! Your thanksgiving tops them all- I mean if there was a thanksgiving day competition. Olga is a very well loved little girl!

Margaret said...

Beautiful and unusual! I wouldn't like those stairs though as I have a habit of tripping, especially if treads aren't up to "code." My cat loves the fake fireplace too; she stares into the gas flames as if mesmerized. Enjoy your vacation!

Edna B said...

That's a beautiful view. Olga knows a good thing when she sees it. (right in front of the fireplace) Enjoy your vacation. Hugs, Edna B.

Kelly said...

I haven't thought about Clamato in years (I always preferred V-8). And yes, we all called it the "wayback"! I'm glad you shared that tidbit about Dave's culinary credentials for us newer folks.

This all looks delightful and I'm glad the three of you are enjoying your stay.

The bike shed said...

I was trying t think why I had heard of Bray and then of course the culinary connection - isn't his most famous restaurant called the Fat Duck?

e said...

What a wonderful break!

Mage said...

What a lovely treat.

Catalyst said...

Now THAT'S an adventure! I am impressed by Dave's culinary training. I had no idea and, as someone who reads obsessively about food, chefs, restaurants, etc., I envy you the meals I'm sure he prepares. You might tell him I'm presently reading a new book titled "Taste Makers" by Mayukh Sen, that he might enjoy.

Steve Reed said...

It's weird that they don't have beakers. I'm going to suggest that they get some.

Steve Reed said...

I do think the stairs would be tricky for many people. Maybe there's a disclaimer about this on the web site! (Dave made the booking so I didn't read it.)

Steve Reed said...

I had to look up what a Huntaway was, but now I understand! :)

Steve Reed said...

I used to love riding in the wayback. It was cool to lie down in a moving car and look out the back window!

I don't know what liability arrangements they have, but I expect we signed something that exempts the landlords.

Steve Reed said...

It was sort of an interim career -- he was a teacher first, then he trained as a chef, then he went back to teaching.

Steve Reed said...

Whoa -- family blog, YP! Family blog!

Steve Reed said...

Multiple rooms, actually! I think this is the first time we've gone anywhere and rented a whole house. (Although it is a very tiny house.)

Steve Reed said...

We have had a great time here. And we managed not to fall down the stairs despite the free gin!

Steve Reed said...

(YET, I should say...)

Steve Reed said...

I may do the same from now on. I just never imagined we wouldn't have a bigger cup than we do!

Steve Reed said...

I think the wayback I remember didn't even have a seat. You just sat on the floor. But yes, you could look out the back window at the cars behind.

Steve Reed said...

Pizza for Thanksgiving sounds awesome! Why kill another poor defenseless turkey? LOL

Steve Reed said...

It looks like someone attempted to set something too heavy on the butler's arms and knocked him a bit askew.

Steve Reed said...

Jeeves is everybody's favorite butler! He's pretty much the model, I'd say.

Steve Reed said...

It hasn't been bad, actually. We've been lucky compared to the rest of the country!

Steve Reed said...

I knew you'd appreciate that we brought her blanket. :)

Steve Reed said...

Dave actually had to talk me into this place. I tend to be more budget-minded. But a splurge is nice now and then!

Steve Reed said...

I have to go down the stairs sideways. It's a little crazy.

Steve Reed said...

She does love it there!

Steve Reed said...

I don't think I've ever actually drunk Clamato. I've just seen it in stores. It's mostly used for Bloody Marys, I think?

Steve Reed said...

Yes! That's here too. We tried to get a reservation there but couldn't get in.

Steve Reed said...

We're enjoying it!

Steve Reed said...

It's been very fun.

Steve Reed said...

I'll mention that book to him! (Or maybe I'll make it a Christmas present? Hmmm...)

Steve Reed said...

No, The Fat Duck is still there. The Hind's Head is a whole different restaurant.

Most English stairs aren't quite THIS bad!