Well, I made it to Vienna, land of monumental doorways, at least in the old city center. (This one is subtle compared to some of them!)
My flight was uneventful, but I had the rudest, crankiest security agents ever at Heathrow airport. They'd announce their spiel about liquids and laptops and whatnot, and then a minute later they'd say, "Since you seem not to be listening, I'm going to say it again...you can stay here for an extra hour, it doesn't matter to me." One woman challenged them on their rudeness and the agent said, "Well, you haven't been here all day," and then joked with her co-worker about pulling the woman's bag for a search. (At least I hope it was a joke.)
I just kept my head down and got through the line, but even I was a target when I didn't step through the security gates quickly enough. I got a reproachful stare and an exasperated "come on" hand gesture. I don't think I've ever dealt with security agents who so clearly hated their passengers.
Once on my Austrian Airlines flight, things were fine. Fun fact: they play Strauss waltzes on the airplane! Unfortunately, they don't serve food or coffee, unless you pay extra for it. So I satisfied myself with water and their one free piece of chocolate. I was glad I got a croissant at the airport.
After we landed in Vienna, I caught a nonstop CAT train into the center of the city and spent the next few hours walking around.
I had a hamburger at a restaurant near this statue depicting Karl Lueger, mayor of Vienna at the turn of the 20th century. Although credited with modernizing the Viennese capital, he's apparently associated with right-wing, antisemitic views and as you can see, the statue is quite controversial. It reminds me of the furor over monuments to Confederate leaders in the USA.
I wonder whether this old sign on a candy shop has raised any eyebrows?
I made my way to Stephansplatz, the main cathedral square in the old city, and remembered my first visit here back in 1997. I was with my mom on a bus tour through Germany and Austria, and we saw many of these sites, like the Plague Column above. It was interesting to revisit them. I can't believe that was 26 years ago.
Instead I went here, and had a huge, milky coffee and a slice of sachertorte. The sachertorte had been refrigerated and it was very firm. I think I could have injured someone if I'd hit them over the head with it. It tasted good, though.
I didn't try to go into any of the museums or palatial structures like the Hofburg Palace, above. I did a lot of that on my previous visit. Instead I just wandered the winding streets.
This looks like an intriguing play, doesn't it? According to Google, the translated title (from Croatian) is, "If I'm a Woman I'm Not a Horse."
Anyway, after wandering long enough to (hopefully) work off the hamburger and the sachertorte, I caught the subway out to the part of town where I'll be staying. I checked into my hotel and had a dubious salami-and-pickle sandwich from the hotel shop for dinner.
Oh, some of you asked what kind of librarian training I'm getting. It's focused on the software we use in the library to check out books and manage the collection -- how to compile reading lists, find related materials and do some of the back-office stuff like inventory, for example. There's also a banned book discussion, which should prove interesting!
Vienna looks thick and heavy.
ReplyDeleteThe dog looks thick and heavy.
I am glad that you do not live there.
Back in the olden days when I was there I could not wait to get out of that city. I think it rubbed off on me- now I am thick and heavy!
I am sure that you will find better food options tomorrow.
Sounds like a bit of dry British humour at the airport, nothing to get in a sweat about. Glad you had the stamina to do all that walking, I would probably have gone for a sleep at the hotel!
ReplyDeleteThe training sounds surprisingly useful and interesting. I had an uncle who was born there and lived there until the age of 3 when he and his parents escaped (to Germany of all places) after Kristallnacht. They went into hiding briefly in Germany until they could escape to the United States. It wasn't until I was an adult that I actually started to think of Vienna differently.
ReplyDeleteI am glad to know I am not a horse.
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't queue for a café like that because a) I hate queueing and b) how rushed would you feel once in there knowing that the queue was outside waiting?
I look forward to hearing about the banned books discussion - and your input!
And another thing... Those Heathrow security agents sound like a lot of the JFK security agents I've dealt with. It's shameful and shouldn't be tolerated. (Although we are certainly not the ones to say anything about or we WILL be pulled aside for a search.)
ReplyDeletePirate commented that he left Heathrow (he used to work as a aircraft ground engineer) 35 years ago...and will never go back!!
ReplyDeleteHow long was the flight? I'm of the opinion that serving foods and drinks on short flights is completely unnecessary (and is only done because "the people" have come to expect it?)
ReplyDeleteA much longer flight such as from Australia to Singapore perhaps needs a food serving.
I was amazed at how many people took advantage of food and drink on the short flight years ago, from Adelaide to Perth. We were in the air just a few hours.
Vienna looks lovely.
I really miss those days when flying was exciting and felt more like a treat. These days I feel more like an old cow be hauled off to the slaughterhouse when flying.
ReplyDeleteVienna is one of my favourite places, I once cycled there along the Danube, started at the source in the Black Forest and arrived in the city after two glorious weeks.
ReplyDeleteAnd you spotted the Sarotti Mohr, much discussion about it, never ending:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarotti
Naturally, I get sucked in by the architecture and fall in love.
ReplyDeleteThe foods a little less glorious than I'd expected, and the Heathrow people exactly as rude as expected. I've never understood that attitude of hating your job and never leaving for something better. I've worked with people like that in the UK, never in the US.
ReplyDeleteWondering how your own book situation is going, if the misguided parents and the evil newspaper "writers" are still at it.
This trip of yours is making me want to take a trip...somewhere...anywhere. Well, maybe not ANYwhere. Ha!
ReplyDeleteI love seeing these photos of Vienna. Looks like a wonderful place to go for a stroll and see such interesting sites. That statue of Karl Lueger really surprised me. I tend not to deface things, but that would make me want to.
ReplyDeleteYou always do much walking on your tours. I am always surprised how you seem to get around without getting lost. You always seem to be able to navigate the train systems.
ReplyDeleteThank you for the great photos from around the city. I love Linda Sue's comment above about it looking thick and heavy. I wouldn't have thought of that but she's right.
ReplyDeleteI can't believe that line of people waiting to get into that cafe. It looks like you could stand there at noon and be seated by dinner. Enjoy your training.
Thank you, Steve, for making the effort to post this. I swear- I can't remember if I've been to Vienna or not. I should go find my old diary. But where the hell is THAT?
ReplyDeleteGoing to Vienna for training about software seems bizarrely exotic - like being sent to Bali as a teacher to learn about a new grading system - except in distance it's probably no stranger than me traveling from Massachusetts to New Jersey. (There's a comparison - Vienna vs Trenton!)
ReplyDeleteWhat a shame you had to deal with such rude people, especially public servants. There's really no excuse for their behavior.
ReplyDeleteThat's a large, hairy dog!
I got in trouble at one UK airport because I hadn't pulled out my hairdryer as one of my electronics. I had never heard of such a rule but they weren't very nice about it. Glad you're there and enjoying the sights, if not the food! I'll be interested to hear about the banned books discussion.
ReplyDeleteWe were in Vienna briefly while waiting for a bike tour to Prague to start. To me, it felt old, cranky and somewhat malevolent. I doubt that we'll ever go back.
ReplyDeleteI did the hoff burg palace
ReplyDeleteAnd all I remember was the marble fireplaces
these old European cities are so decorative. such a dramatic difference to the sleek plain architecture here. I think I'd be more interested in traveling if I didn't have to cross an ocean to do it.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad that's a poster for a play. I thought you might be in the red light district and though that was a unique way of advertising! The buildings look beautiful. I wonder if I'll live long enough to get everywhere I want to go!
ReplyDelete