Thursday, August 12, 2021

Hastings


I've long had a goal to visit Hastings, where William the Conqueror defeated the Anglo-Saxon King Harold back in 1066. It was perhaps the most transformational battle in English history -- everything from laws to language to architecture would be completely different throughout the English-speaking world had the Normans not conquered the Saxons. And it's not far from London, just south of us on the coast in East Sussex. So what was I waiting for?

I made plans with my co-worker Chris to visit yesterday. To make things even more interesting, Chris has a UK driver's license and participates in a car-sharing network, so we could drive down. A road trip in England! That was a first for me in a private car.

We met up about 9 a.m. and got on the road half an hour or so later. The drive was long, to say the least. Hastings is about 65 miles southeast of London, and it took us more than 2 1/2 hours to get down there. But we were in no rush.

Hastings is still a fishing town, and there's an area called the Stade where for hundreds of years fishermen have pulled their boats onto the pebbly beach and hung their nets to dry (above).


We walked along the beach and out onto the pier, where we had a good view of the town. It's a typical British seaside resort, with hotels, restaurants and attractions along the waterfront.

Further along, at Rock-a-Nore Beach, we walked out onto a jetty and while I was taking a picture, a gust of wind lifted my cap from my head and sent it sailing into the ocean. There wasn't much I could do but watch it float away. Even though it was tattered, I was bummed -- it was a cap I bought at Blue Heaven on our cruise five years ago in Key West.  So it goes.


Some of the architecture along the beachfront was interesting...


...and this game on the pier made us laugh. 'Merica!


We had lunch in this pub courtyard, which featured a cat with a partly-amputated tail and a risqué mural of a white bird flashing its rather human-looking buttocks at a leering cormorant. I had a black bean burrito -- not something I often find on a menu in England.

We also stopped at an antique store where I picked up a couple of treasures -- I'll tell you about those tomorrow. And then we got back to the car just in time to catch a parking warden giving us a ticket. We'd overstayed our welcome by 15 minutes or so. Those treasures wound up costing us an extra £25!


From there we drove to the site of the actual Battle of Hastings, about seven miles from town. It's now an English Heritage site and includes the ruins of an old abbey that William the Conqueror supposedly built to atone for the bloodshed there.

This is a view of the battlefield from the abbey, the position of the Saxon battle line. Supposedly, on October 14, 1066, the Normans came marching up that hill. The battle sounds awful -- it took all day and killed thousands of men in hand-to-hand combat with swords, arrows, axes and spears. It's hard to imagine how gruesome it must have been.

(Can you see the big arrow sticking out of the ground out there in the field? Kind of a funny touch.)


These are the remains of the abbey, which continued functioning until Henry VIII broke from the Catholic church in the 1500s. Parts of it were then turned into a country house and, today, a school. Other buildings still stand as ruins like the dormitory (above).


Visitors can walk through medieval rooms with columns and vaulted ceilings where the monks gathered. There's also a large, flat engraved stone marking the spot where King Harold supposedly was killed in the battle.

By this time, it was 6 p.m. and we had to get in the car and get back to London. I didn't get home until about 9 p.m. and no doubt Olga was wondering where I'd been! (She'd been out with her dog walker, though, so she was fine.)

54 comments:

jenny_o said...

OH NO on losing your hat ... doubtless another Steve Reed type somewhere on a beach will find and photograph your hat and wonder how it got there :) A twenty-five pound parking ticket - ouch.

That architecture is amazing. People did some impressive feats of engineering and building in the days we think of as unsophisticated and unrefined.

Yorkshire Pudding said...

Another grand day out. There was something you could have done about the cap Steve. You could have asked Chris to hold your camera, wallet and keys before diving into The English Channel to retrieve the tattered headgear. I assume you can swim?

gz said...

Definitely a Grand Day Out!
Sad that your hat decided it was time to move on. Looking forward to seeing the next hat that will find you.

David said...

What an interesting day you had! I would love to visit Hastings. But sorry about your hat. We golf-ball-type people need our hats.

Tasker Dunham said...

If you live inland then visits to the coast always lift the spirits.

Mary said...

Good to hear you had another day trip. Imagine it was unusual for you to be going anywhere in the UK in a car. Wondering if the state of the roads or just traffic resulted in two and half hours for 65 miles. Or was it due to the old Roman roads? I remember as a kid (who was often carsick) that roads around the UK never went in a straight line anywhere. Every road was a winding, twisty one, even out in places that were nothing more than flat terrain. We always blamed it on the old Romans.

Colette said...

Thanks for sharing this. This is someplace I will probably never go, but am really interested in.

Pixie said...

My cousin used to live near Battle, so I've been there a number of times, as well as Hastings. Have you been to Rye? That is a lovely old city, very old, and one of my favorites.

Your photos made me miss England this morning.

Anonymous said...

Such a long time to drive 65 miles. You should have caught the train, but then I doubt you would have seen so much without a car. Whatever, it sounds like you had a great day out and full of interesting things to see.

Ms. Moon said...

Love these pictures! They're all amazing but my favorite is the mermaids and the sea gull. Just perfect. And isn't it interesting how the two boys in the Hillbilly Shoot Out picture are standing in exactly the same pose? I bet the dad stands that way too.
What a fun day that must have been. Why are seaside towns (even the ones where great battles were fought) so colorful?
I'm glad you got to go.

Bob said...

Such a great tour. I love the view along the beach of the hotels and such; it calls to mind a different time. And the ruins are gorgeous.
Thanks for sharing.

Michael said...

What a great day, despite the loss of your hat. I loved the photos along the beach. Why did it take you so long to get there, was it the traffic?

Linda Sue said...

hillbilly shoot out is reality, not so much a cute game, here, I prefer Hasting's version. Maybe Sarah will find your hat when she is poking around.
The bird bottom is enticing!
Wonderful photos in good weather!

Susan said...

I love the first photograph - I love all of the photos! Not surprising that 'Merica is depicted with guns. Sounds like a perfectly lovely day.

The Bug said...

That sounds like a great day! I have at least the date of the battle burned into my brain because early in our marriage we used 1066 for our bank PIN number - which is funny because I'm married to a US history historian. (Not to worry - we have different PINs now).

Anonymous said...

What a great place to visit. Love these photos, the stories and the history. Seeing that "Hillbilly Shoot Out" pic confirms what I think other countries think of America. Bang bang.

John Going Gently said...

A lovely day out .,.x

Sharon said...

What fun...an actual road trip! Hastings is the setting for another of my favorite British TV shows, "Foyle's War". I love all the photos from there.

Kelly said...

The whole day sounds fun, but I would have really have enjoyed visiting the "battle site". I've read both fiction and non-fiction accounts of the event and yes, it's awful! (but when is warfare ever not??)

Edna B said...

What an awesome day trip! I love the photo of the boats. Such interesting history! Can't wait to see what treasures you bought. You have a super day, hugs, Edna B.

Allison said...

Friends of ours in Seattle used 1066 for their garage opener code. You had a great day for a day trip. I like the seagull flying in front of the mermaid. Good catch.

Linda Sue said...

Oh, and i do LOVE the wooden boats.

The Padre said...

That Last Shot - Way Cool

Cheers
P.S. Olga Girl Is In Need Of A Biscuit

ellen abbott said...

wind is an expert stealer of hats. and what an interesting day. so much ancient history in the UK.

Catalyst said...

I was going to say that that long, long, long row of buildings cheek by jowl doesn't look like a place for a battle between Normans and Saxons. Glad you cleared that up. Might have been a shorter battle though had any of those hillbilly sharpshooters been around.

Janie Junebug said...

Hillbilly Shoot Out? That's something I wouldn't expect to find anywhere in England. I'm surprised you didn't jump in the water to go after your hat. Sounds like a lovely day out.

Love,
Janie

Moving with Mitchell said...

Your photo tour is excellent. Makes me want to visit. Thanks. Hillbilly Shoot Out? Yep.

Steve Reed said...

Yeah, considering the tools and skills they had at the time, it's pretty amazing what they built! OUR modern buildings wouldn't last 1000 years!

Steve Reed said...

I can swim, but I didn't want it THAT badly. (The surface of the water was quite a bit lower than the jetty!)

Steve Reed said...

I have a hat that I bought in York several years ago that I almost never wear. So now I'll be wearing it!

Steve Reed said...

Yeah, head protection is definitely essential for me!

Steve Reed said...

I agree -- it's always great to visit the beach, even if I don't lie on it or go swimming or any of that.

Steve Reed said...

I think it's the "Roman roads" factor! The roads down there were very twisty and narrow. We did hit traffic in a few places, too.

Steve Reed said...

I'm glad I could assist with your "armchair traveling." Maybe when travel becomes easier you'll get here after all!

Steve Reed said...

Yes, I went to Rye a couple of years ago, when I made a trip down to Dungeness. I wasn't there long, though. I probably should go back and explore the town more thoroughly.

Steve Reed said...

I'd originally planned to take the train, but when Chris said he could drive, I thought, "Why not?! Let's try something new!"

Steve Reed said...

I noticed that about the boys too, and I bet you're right about the dad! British seaside towns, including Hastings, have a reputation for being downtrodden and impoverished. Maybe if there's more domestic tourism because of Covid their prospects will improve.

Steve Reed said...

Glad you liked it! Yes, it definitely had the atmosphere of an old resort town. (Which it is!)

Steve Reed said...

There was traffic, and English roads are not like American roads. They tend to be narrower, twistier and slower.

Steve Reed said...

Isn't that bird bottom bizarre?! I got a good laugh out of Hillbilly Shoot-Out. That really is how the rest of the world sees America, I think!

Steve Reed said...

It was a good day! Glad you liked the pics.

Steve Reed said...

Ha! And someone below said 1066 was their password too. I bet it's a common one!

Steve Reed said...

Absolutely! That's our international image, rightly or wrongly.

Steve Reed said...

It was indeed!

Steve Reed said...

I've never seen "Foyle's War." I should check it out!

Steve Reed said...

True. It sounds especially awful back then, when all the fighting was at such close quarters. As I told Chris, if I'd been alive back then, I'd have been a monk. There's no way I could have done that hand-to-hand combat.

Steve Reed said...

It was a good trip! Treasures are in today's post. :)

Steve Reed said...

And Dana (above) said she used 1066 as her pin number. Funny! The seagull took off from that rooftop just as I snapped the picture -- it was really just luck.

Steve Reed said...

I do too!

Steve Reed said...

Always!

Steve Reed said...

The velcro on the back of the hat was shot so it wasn't fastened to my head very tightly. It was time to throw it out anyway.

Steve Reed said...

Well, we talked about why the Normans would have come ashore there. Hastings is in a bit of a valley between otherwise high coastal cliffs, so I assume that's why they chose that spot. And yes, now there's a wall of buildings in the way, not to mention the Hillbillies!

Steve Reed said...

I thought about it, but I knew I had to walk around all day in the clothes I was wearing and besides, jumping off that jetty looked a little too dangerous.

Steve Reed said...

Hatfields and McCoys!