Monday, December 13, 2021

Bostall Woods to Oxleas Meadows


Yesterday I tackled the third segment of the Green Chain walk, from Bostall Woods to Oxleas Meadows. I took a tube and train to Plumstead, where I walked along the high street to do some photography -- which you'll no doubt see in coming days.

Then I took a bus to Bostall Woods, where the 2.9-mile trail began next to this neat-as-a-pin clubhouse for the lawn bowling club.


The trail led into the forest, where almost immediately I came across a large, squabbling flock of ring-necked parakeets. They were ducking in and out of holes in the trees and arguing loudly. I think I saw more parakeets on this walk than I have on any other -- dozens of them. They're pretty birds, but they're not native, and I can't help but wonder about the woodpeckers and other creatures that would normally live in those tree holes but have been displaced.

I love the quizzical posture of this parakeet: "What do YOU want?"


Not much farther along, I found a tree had fallen across the path. I gingerly picked my way over it.


The trail came out of the woods near Plumstead Cemetery, which has a rather grand old chapel building.


It led me past some houses and this neighborhood pub, the Forester's Arms, before entering another park, the East Wickham Open Space. I crossed that -- didn't even take any pictures -- and made my way through another neighborhood where the streets were named for poets: Dryden, Keats, Chaucer.

I had a weird experience as I walked past one house. A clay roof tile suddenly came loose and clattered loudly down the slope of the roof before crashing on the ground. What are the odds that would happen just as I walked by? There was no one else around, and I half expected someone to come out and yell at me. I imagined myself insisting, "I didn't do it!"


I was supposed to re-enter a green space at Woodland Farm, near where this curious goat kept watch over his domain from the roof of a shed. But the gates were closed and I didn't see any way to get in. Turns out there's apparently a long dispute between walkers and the farm over access to the trail through this area. The farm says it's not a proper right-of-way and has blocked it off, allegedly because of vandalism.

So I followed an alternate route (fortunately signposted), past more houses and then along a claustrophobically-fenced footpath that circled another cemetery. I finally emerged onto a major street, Bellegrove Road, and that took me to Oxleas Woods.


I came out of the woods at this hilltop cafe, where I had a vegetarian English breakfast and watched people exercising their dogs on the grassy slope. I asked to buy one of the cafe t-shirts, like the staff were wearing, because they had kind of a cool fried-egg design and I thought it would make a nice souvenir. But they don't sell them. Sigh.

As I sat at my outdoor table, I swear I saw Richard and Hyacinth from "Keeping Up Appearances." An older couple wandered up and the woman said to the man, gesturing to the door, "We can go inside, Richard!" And the man replied, "We ARE going inside!" He proceeded to open a different door and, well, go inside.

A boy and his father walked past. "Why didn't we get cake?" the boy asked. "That's a good question," the father said.


This area is known as Shooter's Hill, and diarist Samuel Pepys mentions it in his entry of April 11, 1661. He walked beneath "the man that hangs upon Shooter's Hill and a filthy sight it was to see how his flesh is shrunk to his bones." Apparently this was a bandit whose body was hung on a gibbet as a warning to other lawbreakers.

Fortunately I didn't see anything that grisly as I walked to the bus stop -- just the old water tower, from 1910, a landmark along the roadway. From there I caught the bus to the train station in Blackheath and made my way home.

49 comments:

Yorkshire Pudding said...

The way you describe your Sunday jaunt - it's like you are an early explorer in Africa. Were you wearing a pith helmet? I have often spotted business T-shirts that I would like to buy. Have you ever seen those red T-shirts in shop windows that announce sales. They have usually just got the one word "SALE" upon them. I would love one of those.

Frances said...

That is a very fine water tower. I am surprised that it hasn't been turned into a residence! It would make a good " Grand Designs" programme.
We had 4 of those parakeets in the garden yesterday. They don't normally come this far up from the river.....hope they don't make it a habit!

Anonymous said...

What a great walk with so much of interest to see.

The right of way confuses me. Either it is a legal and established right of way or it isn't and in spite of reading the Green Chain Dispute website it is not clear to me. I would respect closing of gates after passing through on a right of way but the gates should be able to be opened.

The farm where I grew up had a right of way vehicle track through it. It was rarely used and those in the know about it being a public road always closed the gates.

Moving with Mitchell said...

Ooh, I’m imagining that water tower converted into a living space. This looks to me like a fascinating, varied walk. Given the need for tube and train to start out, how long did it all take?

Sabine said...

I enjoyed this very much. As I said before, I just love these wlaks and your reporting from it.
As for the parakeets, we have them as well and they have now become native here since 1967 (!!), when there were the first sightings in the wild. They usually live along rivers and branch out during daylight but return to one or two specific trees, always the same, in large flocks for the night. We have three tree settings along the river here and the noise at sunset is amazing, reminds me of the Seychelles where the birds always made such a racket at sunset.
At least here in Germany, they have found a niche along all the other birds. There is debate as to whether parakeets have competitive advantages in terms of nesting sites and food due to their (to us) aggressive behavior toward native bird species and bats. But no real evidence.
They visit our feeding places in the garden and have been very "polite" not chasing away others - that's what the magpies do.

Debby said...

I love your jaunts and the pictures, and it will never fail to amaze me that you have wild parakeets there.

Bob said...

I was going to say something I thought witty about parakeets gentrifying the woodpecker's homes, but I got lost in the architecture of that church. Gosh, what a fabulous sight. And then that water tower seemingly plopped down in a row of houses. Beautiful.

Edna B said...

I love that you have parakeets in the wild. Ours are bought at pet stores. This was quite an ambitious walk. I love the old stone chapels and cathedrals. They really are quite beautiful. You have a super day, hugs, Edna B.

Ms. Moon said...

What an amazing way to spend some hours! Do you ever look around and think, "We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto!"?

Ellen D. said...

Interesting commentary to go along with your lovely walk!
You were lucky that the roof tile didn't land on your head!
So much to see on that walk! Thanks, Steve!

Ed said...

The wild parakeets and the fabulous old water tower were the highlights of this post for me but the journey between them was nice to read as well.

Marcia LaRue said...

Your walks and narratives are the only way I will ever "see" your country! It's my budget travelogues! LOL Thank you!!

Anonymous said...

What a great walk you just virtually took us on. Thank you for photographing this beautiful journey. Love the look on that parakeet and that goat.

Vivian Swift said...

That must have been a 10 mile walk, right? I love the photo of the parakeet but the entire amble sounds very scenic and thought-provoking. I bet the G&T afterwards tasted sublimely rewarding.

Red said...

You had an interesting day people watching and walking by history.

Kelly said...

So many interesting sights and sounds on your walk! That's an odd wooden companion next to the goat. We raised goats for awhile and they're quite entertaining creatures.

The Bug said...

I loved reading about the walk (that church!), but the burning question of the day is why DIDN'T they get cake?

Wilma said...

Recently started reading your blog. I have a burning question today - did you get cake?

cheers,
Wilma

Allison said...

What a cool walk. I notice that your skies look like our skies.

Wilma said...

@The Bug - snap!

Jim Davis said...

A very interesting walk. Also pretty remarkable that a tropical bird like a Ringneck has adapted and thrived in a colder climate.

My life so far said...

Thank you for the lovely walk.

Sharon said...

I just scoured the Google maps to get and idea of how far away you were. That is quite a walk. It's interesting to see those photos of just woods and yet know that you were still in a populated area. London does have great places to escape from the city hustle. I love the photo of the parakeet. He does look rather dismayed to find you below him. I also loved the dialogue you heard while lunching. I can just picture Richard and Hyacinth. I also love the goat and that wonderful water tower. And, that cemetery is pretty amazing too.

Mage said...

That was a great walk.

Linda Sue said...

magnificent walk WOW! I LOVE the top photo so much, way cool. You certainly are a champion walker, especially when Olga stays at home. Your stride must be about seven feet! Wonderful photos- like taking a holiday without the hassle, Thank you!

Steve Reed said...

It's funny how many businesses fail to realize they have a potential source of revenue in their shirts! PLUS advertising!

Steve Reed said...

That WOULD make a great residence. Apparently there's another water tower nearby that has been turned into a luxury home with amazing views.

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-7398279/Stunning-five-bedroom-converted-Victorian-water-tower-sale.html

Steve Reed said...

I agree about the right-of-way -- I don't quite understand the dispute as it seems it should be legally clear whether it's an open path or not.

Steve Reed said...

It was an all-day adventure. Basically 9 a.m. to about 4 p.m.

Steve Reed said...

I've read articles here that suggest they do displace woodpeckers and there have even been past efforts to cull them with that in mind. But you're right -- at some point they become naturalized and seem to settle in to the ecosystem, for better or worse.

Steve Reed said...

It definitely gives London an exotic air!

Steve Reed said...

The water tower was a pleasant surprise. I didn't see it on any of the Green Chain walking guides. Seems like a missed opportunity.

Steve Reed said...

Certain kinds of parakeets are quite adaptable and they become naturalized pretty easily. There are loads of feral parrots and parakeets in Florida.

Steve Reed said...

Every day!

Steve Reed said...

Yeah, that tile seemed HEAVY when it hit the ground!

Steve Reed said...

Glad you enjoyed it!

Steve Reed said...

I hope I can get out soon and see more on your behalf! :)

Steve Reed said...

The animals do have great expressions, don't they?

Steve Reed said...

The path was only 2.9 miles, and then I walked maybe another mile or so on my own. A gin & tonic DID constitute my reward in the evening, though! You know me so well, Vivian.

Steve Reed said...

It was a very interesting day!

Steve Reed said...

Yeah, I don't know what that thing is. I thought it was a wooden goat but it seems to have wings. It's like a goat/ostrich combo.

Steve Reed said...

To quote Dad, "That's a good question!"

Steve Reed said...

Ha! You're both on the same wavelength! I bet they get cake next time.

Steve Reed said...

Pretty dense at this time of year!

Steve Reed said...

They do quite well here. Here's a rundown on the UK parakeet situation:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feral_parakeets_in_Great_Britain

Steve Reed said...

Glad you enjoyed it!

Steve Reed said...

The Richard and Hyacinth thing was hilarious. They sounded EXACTLY like them -- right down to the guy's name!

Steve Reed said...

I'm glad and I agree!

Steve Reed said...

Oh, if Olga had come along we couldn't have gone nearly this distance. Some days it's all I can do to get her around the block!