Tuesday, May 3, 2022

Beckenham Hill to Nunhead and DONE!


Yesterday morning I decided to take on another segment of the Green Chain walk. So I hopped two trains to South London (not at the same time) and soon found myself back at Beckenham Hill, ready to hoof it.

The Green Chain in this area follows the same path as the Capital Ring, which you may remember I walked almost exactly three years ago. So I'd seen this territory before. Still, I enjoyed reawakening those memories while experiencing some new frustrations, such as trying to find the much-touted Edward VIII iron pillar mailbox near Stumps Hill. (Hint: Despite what the map says, it's not on Stumps Hill. It's on nearby Brackley Road. Unfortunately I only learned this afterwards.)

In Cator Park I was passed by a kid acrobatically standing on his bicycle seat while singing Steve Winwood's "Higher Love" at the top of his lungs. It amused me that a 9-year-old kid would be singing a 35-year-old song, though granted there have been more recent cover versions.

I eventually wound up in the community of Penge, near Crystal Palace, where I found lots of interesting street art the last time I passed through. There's still lots of art, though the pieces are new. I particularly liked this mural (above) of a great tit standing on a positive lateral flow test indicator.


Here's some more interesting art. The last time I was on this street it looked much different.

From there, I passed into Crystal Palace park, where I once again visited the Victorian dinosaur display:


The 170-year-old dinosaurs have experienced a rough time in recent years, with Historic England declaring them "at risk" and one losing part of its jaw. But there's been some repair and investment since then and they are definitely crowd-pleasers. You can't tell from this photo, but there were hordes of people visiting them. (They're fenced off and can be viewed only across the pond.)


I also found this rather peculiar statue in Crystal Palace park. Looks like someone has fitted it with the head of Egyptian goddess Wenut.

Crystal Palace Park is so named because it once contained the gigantic glass structure that housed the famous Exhibition of 1851. The structure was relocated from Hyde Park to this park in South London, where it burned down in 1936. The arches in the photo above are pretty much all that's left.

Although I'd finished segment ten of the Green Chain walk at this point, I decided to press on and complete the last segment as well. I walked through beautiful Sydenham Wells Park and on into Sydenham Hill Wood.


I found this dramatic scene at the Cox's Walk footbridge. Apparently the bridge has been closed for years and an improvement project was delayed because of a public outcry over the planned removal of two oak trees at the bridge's western end. The plans have since been reconsidered but the bridge is still closed -- which caused a problem for me, because the Green Chain route crosses it.

I found an alternate route and continued on, past Peckarman's Wood and into Horniman Gardens. (It's juvenile of me, but I can't stop laughing at some English place names.) At the Horniman Museum I had lunch -- an enormous grilled cheese sandwich -- overlooking the London skyline.


From there, the path passed through another park and a couple of cemeteries. This was probably the most impressive grave I saw. That's all for one person, with each of the stones carrying a separate message from one of her children and their families. A real king-sized bed, huh?


I came across this mailbox in a nearby neighborhood with a knitted mini-Stonehenge on the top!
 

And finally, my 9.5-mile walk concluded in Nunhead Cemetery, where the woods have been allowed to take over the gravesites and many headstones are now buried deep in the foliage. It's a wonderful place and although I'm not crazy about the idea of being buried myself, if I knew my grave was going to be so enveloped by nature I might go for it. This obelisk is a monument to "Scottish political martyrs."

I exited the cemetery and walked to the nearby Nunhead train station, where I bought a couple of garden plants (a Nicotiana and a silverleaf, which looks like what I know as a dusty miller) from an amazing garden shop called the Nunhead Gardener. Then I caught two trains home (not at the same time), and now I am finished with the Green Chain!

31 comments:

River said...

Thank you for letting us "walk" with you. That huge grave is quite impressive, but I would much rather have a small one that gets buried in forest greenery over time. I can't imagine having to maintain that big one, keeping it neat and fresh looking.

Yorkshire Pudding said...

Horniman Gardens? That's a good one. Here are some genuine English street or road names - Turkey Cock Lane, Fanny Lane, Cockshoot Lane, Crotch Crescent, Cumming Street, The Knob.

Interesting place names include Cockermouth, Twatt and Lickey End.

In Orpington, Kent there's even a street called Reed Avenue!

Moving with Mitchell said...

Finished with the Green Chain and what’s next? Sounds like a great walk. I love the photos. So glad that statue in Crystal Palace Park has been restored. It looks exactly like the original. I wonder what inspired the great tit/lateral flow/citrus art. And of course Horniman would offer up something enormous for lunch.

David said...

Thank you for sharing your walk(s) with us. Most interesting description and I could almost picture the route. And now what will you do for walking? Like most of us who walk regularly (daily) you will just have to go back over the same route - again, and again, and again. Life is a bit like that though, isn't it?

Ed said...

I think if I had as varied landscape to walk through, I might get nine miles in a single outing.

Anonymous said...

Start with a tit, then to Horniman and end with something very phallic.

I've always puzzled but never looked up how the glass Crystal Palace burnt down. Glass burns?

It's nice to complete a project as you have undertaken. I must start a new one soon.

Miss Kim said...

What a delightful walk! Thank you for sharing your findings today :)

Boud said...

This is one of your best walks, great fun to read. I think a lot of those place names were made up to shock!

Picky note: the yarn bombed mailbox hat is crocheted, not knitted. It looks like double crochet stitch, very good for stretching easily over unyielding shapes. Well spotted by you.

The city certainly has a lot of quirky features, thanks for bringing them to us.

Do you have another series of walks yet?

Bob said...

Love the street art so much. Love a young boy singing Winwood tunes.
Not so in love with that Ego Grave. Someone clearly thought very highly of themselves.

Sabine said...

Thanks for bringing us along and I hope you will find another exciting walk soon

Ms. Moon said...

What a great walk!
I knew that Liz (Boud) would recognize the crocheting in Stone Henge. What a very, very strange thing to crochet.
I hope the dinosaurs get fixed up. Nothing like a good dinosaur display!
Yes. That grave is a bit ostentatious, isn't it? But I'm sure it meant a lot to the family.
I can't think of any particular naughty place names around here but there is one that makes me shudder and laugh at the same time- Pin Hook Road. Both pin and hook can refer to parasitic worms.

Debby said...

What is that name of that bird perched on the covid test? At first glance I thought 'chickadee' but he's too colorful. Is that even what you call them there?

I love the dinosaur display. They really do look quite at home tucked among the greenery.

That grave is quite an elaborate thing. I have orders to be cremated, tossed in a hole, and a lilac bush planted on top of me. If my loved ones have any words for me, they can come and whisper them to the breeze.

Ellen D. said...

Congrats on finishing the Green Chain! I have enjoyed it! Your photos and descriptions are always most entertaining.
What hiking tour will you take us on next?

Wilma said...

Yarn Henge Rules!

Red said...

wow! You saw a lot on this walk. but then if you walk 9.5 miles you should se quite a bit.

Kelly said...

Congratulations on finishing The Chain! You saw some really interesting things on this leg of it and I'm glad you share them with us. The dinosaur exhibit would be great fun! I studied The Crystal Palace in school.

NewRobin13 said...

That is such a great walk. I love all the views, the art, the dinosaurs, the statue with the head of a goddess. Thank you for taking such wonderful photos all of this so I could virtually take this walk with you. I loved it!

Sharon said...

A great walk with lots to see. That knitted top to the mailbox is quite unusual and it was fun seeing the dinosaurs once again. And, even though it's still morning here, a giant grilled cheese sandwich sounds rather good especially accompanied by a spectacular view. I'm looking forward to hearing about your next walking adventure.

Jeanie said...

Now that's an intense walk -- and with so many discoveries. Love the dinosaurs and cemetery art. Three cheers on finishing the chain!

Margaret said...

Such a wonderfully quirky set of photos. That grave was quite something; I wouldn't like it for myself, as I'm a simple type. That person must have been wealthy/well-known for his time. (I'm assuming male)

Colette said...

That one gravesite is phenomenal with so many additional structures. It makes me wonder who that person was.

Barbara said...

Go you! Thanks for taking us along
Xoxo
Barbara

jenny_o said...

I feel really stupid saying this, but what better place than a popular blog where so many people can laugh about it and maybe feel better about themselves? ... I have never thought to wonder when dinosaurs were first discovered/named. Apparently the first person to name them did so in the mid-1800s, so, not too long ago in the big picture (although evidence was being found thousands of years before that). What got me wondering was the "Victorian" reference regarding the dino display. Thanks for piquing my interest :)

gz said...

I like your description of sections of the Green Chain Walk..one advantage of being in London is that there is so much in close proximity.

I find linguistics fascinating...old names may seem odd...or rude! But when you find their true derivation it can be an eye opener!!

gz said...

Looking for the meaning of some of the names I found this....https://danieljamesgreenwood.com/tag/dulwich-estate/
Thought you might be interested

John Going Gently said...

That’s a big tit Xx

Debby said...

I am not sure if my comments are not taking or going to your spam folder, but I truly enjoyed this walk. The grave is quite over the top. I've never seen a modern grave quite that...um...extravagant. Which is why I are asked to be cremated and my ashes dropped in a hole with a lilac tree dropped on top. The words of my loved ones can be carried in the scented breeze.

Debby said...

PS: Stonehedge was quite creative, and the dinosaurs looked quite at home in their greenery by the pond.

The Padre said...

Good On You Brother - 9 Miles While Being Visually Stimulated - My Kind Of Day - Proud Of Ya

Cheers
P.S. Olga Girl Would Love To Find A Treat Under Her Favorite Pink Blanket

Steve Reed said...

I'm glad everyone enjoyed the walk!

Debby, the bird is a great tit, which is very common in the UK and apparently a relative of the chickadee. And yes, your first comment went to my spam folder, for some reason.

YP, love the place names!

Boud, thanks for pointing out the crocheting vs. knitting! I do not know my yarn crafts. :)

My next walk will probably be the Thames Path, which runs along the river through the city from Twickenham all the way into Essex. But maybe I'll rest a few months first. :)

37paddington said...

I love going along on your found street art excursions!