Saturday, June 26, 2021

The Needles


Yesterday I had a bit of an adventure. I bought a £10 all-day pass on the local bus service, and I set out for the other side of the island to see The Needles.

They're a series of interesting chalk formations projecting into the sea, surrounded by high bluffs and chalk cliffs that make for excellent walking. Dave and Olga weren't particularly into this idea -- well, Olga might have been into it, but the walk would have been too far for her -- so they stayed back at the hotel and I went on my own.

I managed to snag my favorite seat on every double-decker bus -- the front left side of the top deck -- which gave me an excellent view of the passing countryside. The west side of the island seems more quaint and more rural than the area where we're staying. There were lots of little villages and farms.



Here's a sample of what the ride was like. There are three short videos here -- one of the bus coming into the village of Brightstone; one of the bus approaching Freshwater Bay, where I got off to begin my walk along the cliffs, which you can see in the video; and one of a "chine," a forested gorge, in this case next to Alum Bay.

In the middle video, approaching Freshwater Bay, the land to the right up and over the hills is Afton Down, the site of the famous Isle of Wight music festival in 1970. (Fellow blogger Mr. Pudding recently wrote about attending this festival along with more than half a million of his closest friends.)

When I got off the bus in Freshwater Bay, I began walking up the cliffs, and was surprised to see cows grazing. You'd think the cliffs might be a hazard for them but I guess they know enough to steer clear. While I can't begin to approach the level of quality bovine photography we've come to know from Mr. Pudding, I did take a few pictures (top).



The weather was initially cloudy, but at least it wasn't raining. This 1897 monument to Alfred, Lord Tennyson, who lived near Freshwater Bay, stands atop the headland overlooking the ocean.

After about three miles of walking I reached the end of the cliffs and found The Needles:


By the time I got there, as you can see, the sun had come out. The lighthouse at the tip of The Needles dates from 1859 and Wikipedia says it's still active.

It wasn't super-easy to see The Needles from the tip of the headland, which is an old military fortification of concrete battlements protecting the entrance to the Solent from naval attacks. I found just one viewpoint, offering the perspective above.


But after walking back to Alum Bay, on the other side of the headland, I could see them from another interesting angle.

At a small amusement park in Alum Bay, I stopped at a coffee shop named, for some reason, after Italian radio inventor Guglielmo Marconi. (Maybe there was a military communications station out there on the bluffs?) I heard some women in front of me have a conversation with the attendant about sandwiches, but I didn't really pay attention, and they left empty handed. When I got to the counter I saw a couple of boxed sandwiches in the pastry case, so I pointed at one and told the attendant, "I'll have that cheese sandwich."

"We're all out of cheese sandwiches, I'm afraid," he said.

Still pointing at the sandwich, which I could see with my own eyes, I said, "But...."

Turns out the "sandwich" in the box was actually just a picture of a sandwich, which I was seeing through the cellophane. It was merely a display item. Do I need glasses or what?! I laughed and said, "This is a crazy idea, but you might want to take the picture out of the display case so people don't keep trying to order cheese sandwiches!" He agreed and said he'd just been too busy. I had coffee and a brownie and by the time I left he had indeed removed the faux-sandwich from the case.


It was only about 2 p.m. so I decided to board the bus again and try to see Dimbola Lodge, the home of famous Victorian photographer Julia Margaret Cameron. (Apparently lots of artistic types used to hang out in this part of the Isle of Wight back in the Victorian era. Queen Victoria herself had a house on the north side of the island.)

On the bus, I sat next to a young man and woman and their elderly mother. They bantered about the scenery and as we passed this building (above) the woman said, "It looks like a thatched church."

The man said, "Well, it's definitely a church, and it's definitely thatched."

The woman, peering at the sign as we passed, said, "Why, it's called 'The Thatched Church'!" And she was right. Its real name is St. Agnes', but it's nicknamed The Thatched Church.


I got to Dimbola Lodge, and wouldn't you know, the museum closes at 3 p.m. Argh! So I had another coffee on the patio and read my New Yorker, because I now had two hours to kill before the next bus out of town. At least I can say I saw the outside of the house.


I walked down to the beach in Freshwater Bay, where there were more interesting chalk formations.


I liked this colorful mosaic in one of the beachfront shelters.

Finally, just before 5 p.m., I ventured back to the bus stop to get out of there. As I waited in the late-afternoon sun, I was treated to a long and loud argument between a young man and woman about how she refused to have sex with him blah blah blah. As he argued he smoked a large and very stinky spliff. Oh, brother.

Finally the bus arrived, and the arguing couple (thank God) didn't get on. I was back in Sandown at 7 p.m.

54 comments:

Frances said...

What a great day you had! We did get to go in the Dimbola House and I seem to remember it was very interesting, shame you missed it.

Moving with Mitchell said...

I would have loved that day trip. Thanks for sharing the great photos and video.

Yorkshire Pudding said...

I enjoyed this blogpost very much as I got mentioned twice! However, I would prefer to be mentioned more often. Loved the video and recognised Afton Down when it came up. Riding at the front of the top deck of a double decker bus certainly provides an unusual view of the world. If I am a bovine photographer, you are a canine one! ARRF! ARRF!

Janie Junebug said...

What a beautiful place! How I would love to visit. Will you get to visit Victoria's little cottage? I think it's called Osborne House and no doubt it's huge. I would love to see it. I'm sure I'd be fooled by the faux cheese sandwich, too. The guy who had been refused sex smoked a joint and didn't even offer to share? Selfish!

Love,
Janie

Susan said...

What a beautiful spot. I would agree with Mr. Pudding that riding on the front of the top deck of a double decker bus is one of the best ways to view the world. That mosaic is absolutely beautiful.

gz said...

A good day! ISTR you will find that Marconi did some experimenting from the Isle of Wight with wireless communication to ships at sea in 1897.
My favourite bus seat too 😎

Dave R said...

3PM seems awfully early to close.

Bob said...

What a great trip. The bus video remined me, for some reason, of the films they would show at Disneyland from places around the world. It made you feel like you were ON the bus.

And the Needles are very cool, though that coastline is spectacular.
Thanks for the trip to the coast, I loved it.

Red said...

Walking is the best way to see a place. Drive by tourists see and learn very little.

Anonymous said...

What a great journey that was. Loved seeing what you saw there. So beautiful.

Colette said...

Just beautiful. A vacation spot I never knew existed.

e said...

A very cool day out. Thanks for the video.

Sharon said...

What a great adventure. The photos are all fantastic. I love the one of the Needles with the lupine in the foreground. I really enjoyed the video, it was like riding along with you.

Ms. Moon said...

I think you passed a few cottages that I would have found acceptable. That one with all the roses, for example.
Seriously, though, what a beautiful day! I'm so glad you got to get out and do some riding, some walking. Perfect. Sad though that the Lodge was closed.
That mural is amazing.
Thank you for sharing.

Beth Reed said...

OH I have to say that Dave and Olga missed out on a great adventure. I am sure that the trip would have been to hard for Olga and I don't know if she would have been allowed on the double decker bus.
I loved the pictures and went back and looked at them several times and watched the video twice. I had to watch it a second time in case I missed something the first time around.
I had heard of Isle Of Wight but I never dreamed that it would be as lovely as it is and your photos just prove to me that if I ever get a chance I want to visit and stay so long that I would become a permanent fixture. I really loved the Needles. They are very awesome and the angles of the way you photographed them was awesome.
I totally fell in love with the Thatch Church and I chuckled at the cheese sandwich. Steve that is something that I would do lol. Oh and before I forget the Mosaic is just Gorgeous.
Thank you for taking us on your vacation! Well done!
Take care and have fun. Hugs xxx

ellen abbott said...

well, Dave missed out if you ask me but my husband probably wouldn't have wanted to go either. it's so picturesque, reminded me of my trip to Scotland and even Portugal somewhat. but you know what really stands out? it's so clean, no trash, no litter. Americans are such slobs and so trashy.

Ellen D. said...

I was amazed at how the bus driver can drive on such narrow roads! I would think there wasn't enough room to get past those cars coming at you, but the bus would just slide by! Beautiful scenery!

Linda Sue said...

Oh THank you for this adventure! Gorgeous cottages , countryside and the needles are intriguing, soon to be under water I think. What a wonderful day! So glad the weather was fine and you got the favored seat on the bus. BTW cows are not as dumb as humans.

John Going Gently said...

Looks more rugged than I thought

Angelicastar said...

Thanks for letting me go on vacation with you three. i have been reading all your blogs but couldn't comment because my middle finger on my right hand was caught in my garage door when i was letting it down. i need to get my garage door opener repaired. i am using one finger now.(lo) stay safe and have fun.

Mary said...

What a good day trip. Thanks for sharing the photos. Also loved the view of the approach to Freshwater Bay. Nothing like to top left front seat of a double decker. Think I would prefer to stay on the quiet side of the island. More my cup of tea.

Allison said...

Beautiful part of the world. Thanks for the photos of it.

Kelly said...

What a marvelous post! You've managed to make me feel as if I were right there with you. It's been far too long since I visited the UK. This may have to go on the wishlist of places to see on the next trip.

crafty cat corner said...

I have been to the Isle of Wight a couple of times many years ago and found it a beautiful place, looks like nothing has changed.
Briony
x

Mike O'Brien said...

Thank you for taking us along for the ride! I've never ridden (nor driven) on the 'wrong' side of the road - quite a different perspective (always a good thing to have). What a beautiful countryside. Sounds like a real vacation for you three.

Chris from Boise

Elizabeth said...

Oh, how I loved all of this. I wish I'd been walking along with you! It's all so beautiful and all so exactly as I'd imagine that part of England to be. Thank you for the videos, too -- it was breathtaking to see the ocean come into view and those white cliffs.

Steve Reed said...

Oh well, hopefully I can catch it on my next visit! We never got to Ventnor or Osborne House either, so there's plenty more to do.

Steve Reed said...

Glad you liked it!

Steve Reed said...

It's cool that you recognized the Afton Down area. I'm still vague on exactly where the festival was, but it was somewhere in those hills. Could you see the ocean from there? It seems rather hazardous to have a bunch of stoned hippies wandering in the vicinity of those cliffs!

Steve Reed said...

I didn't get to Osborne House this time -- we were told we couldn't bring the dog, so we decided to wait. I'm not opposed to anyone smoking a joint, but in this case I thought it was neither the time nor the place!

Steve Reed said...

Every time I ride the bus in London I aim for that seat. In a pinch I'll sit on the right, but for some reason I prefer the left!

Steve Reed said...

Ah, that explains the Marconi connection! I should have known there was one.

Steve Reed said...

That's what I thought! Especially in summer, when they'd have the most visitors.

Steve Reed said...

YES! I know the Disney ride you mean -- "If You Had Wings." It was always my favorite ride at Disney World. Sponsored by Eastern Airlines, as I recall.

Steve Reed said...

You certainly get a lot more detail!

Steve Reed said...

Glad you enjoyed it!

Steve Reed said...

It's a big world -- so many places to see!

Steve Reed said...

Glad you liked it!

Steve Reed said...

Thanks! I believe the "lupine" is actually viper's bugloss, which grows in those sunny, chalky environments.

Steve Reed said...

I could have lived in any one of those houses, in any of the villages I passed!

Steve Reed said...

Dogs on buses are not a problem here, but we don't usually take Olga on the bus because it's hard for her to stand steadily. (And we wouldn't take her to the top deck -- the stairs are too narrow.) Trains and taxis tend to be much smoother. Glad you liked "tagging along." :)

Steve Reed said...

It was VERY clean -- much cleaner than London!

Steve Reed said...

It's amazing how the drivers can maneuver those things around tight corners and through narrow spaces.

Steve Reed said...

The cows do seem to have good common sense, although there's another pasture area farther along the cliffs that IS fenced.

Steve Reed said...

It's pretty rugged! I wouldn't want to be out there in bad weather.

Steve Reed said...

Oh no! Sorry about your finger but I'm glad you've been reading. :)

Steve Reed said...

I agree. If we went again I think I'd choose a place on the west side of the Island.

Steve Reed said...

Glad you liked them!

Steve Reed said...

I'm glad you got to "tag along." There's plenty to do on the Isle of Wight -- we missed out on a lot and I imagine we'll go back at some point.

Steve Reed said...

It is very beautiful. I was impressed. And as Ellen said, it's so clean, especially outside the towns.

Steve Reed said...

I drove on the left in New Zealand many years ago. It took some getting used to but it's not as hard as it seems it would be. This was a nice break, but too short!

Steve Reed said...

Glad you liked it, Elizabeth! Everybody talks about the "white cliffs of Dover" but much of the south coast of England has those same chalky cliffs.

The Bug said...

I was a little alarmed watching the video until I remembered that the bus was on the "wrong" side of the road on purpose - ha! And the Needles have a sort of Loch Ness Monster look to them.

37paddington said...

My eyes keeps seeing the same shape as the needles in the roof lines of the houses, a theme that carries through. Lovely ramble.